kitchen fitting

[Bob Watkinson]

I've never fitted a kitchen before and feel a little nervous about the prospect. Can anyone recommend any reading that will advise me of pitfalls etc.

Cheers,

Bob

[JimP]

It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.

[Karl]

Ive never fitted a kitchen but could do in the future. just wondering, why not buy flat pack stuff?

[Peter Andrews]

It just takes longer, but flat packs can be easier if you need to reduce the depth of some units as you can easily cut the boards before assembly - taking 6" off of an assembled unit is more difficult. The other advantage of flat packed is that it doesn't take so much storage space, a full set of built base units, wall cupboards, etc. takes a lot of house room (unless you have a garage) and remember, if you are working on your own, that it is quite difficult to move assembled units around the house. Havig said that do get assistance with lifting worktops they are very heavy. Good luck - it's not difficult.

Peter

[Bob Watkinson]

I wonder if I could ask a few questions at this point.

1/ I assume I start from the corner of the room and work out. Is this correct. 2/Are worktops supplied cut to length with a mitred end for right-angled joints? 3/ Do worktops come with the hole cut for the sink and hob according to my specifications? 4/ Does the worktop need to be laid with a slight fall to drain the sink or is this built into the design of the sink with the work top level? 5/How is levelling done? Is it with screw in feet?

Thanks again fella's

[John]

See below

Measure the room and plan where you want everything. The corner may not be the best place to start. Check the walls to make sure they are straight. If they are not, then you will have to compensate. The corner may not be 90 degrees.

Depends on where you get the worktop and what you ask for.

Same as above. If the hole is cut, make sure your measuring is correct.

The worktop should be flat. The sink has the drop built in. If you don't have level worktops, the corners won't work.

Depens on what you've baught. The lower end of the market don't have adjustable feet, so you need to use wedges to level. the better the units the easier to level. Better units have screw adjustable feet.

jh

[Jo]

Can I hijack a bit of this thread please ?

Firstly, I'm also contemplating fitting a kitchen and would like to plan it using some good kitchen design software. What I have in mind is something that allows me to drag/drop standard and custom units into a 2D plan...then give me a 3D view and other info, such as a parts list, based on the plan. Free would be nice, but I wouldn't mind paying for a good package.

Secondly...I'm after a stainless sink. At a minimum it must be a drop over (sit-on?) type with double drainer/double bowl and some sort of built-in splashback. Oh...the sticking point...it needs to be 600mm depth.

I've looked at loads of sinks but they all fall short of the minimum spec above. Can anybody help please ?

TIA

Jo

[Funkhunter]

For this kind of specs you need to look at catering equipment suppliers.

[Vass]

start with a datum this is a level line right around the room where you want the worktop to sit (height wise) without this line drawn around the room, everything will be much more difficult I would'nt start in a corner Have you sorted the plumbing and ring main ? is the floor level, if not make sure you're using units with screw feet heighjt adjustment. Screw each cabinet to its neighbour and to the wall Take your time, its very satisying when you get the job done good luck !

[D. A. Hicks]

Guys

1) Kitchen design software is no more than an electronic drawing package. You can not do anything with a CAD package that you can not do with pen and paper Don't waste money on a CAD package if you do not know how to use it

2) In most Kitchen ranges 500 and 1000 units are cheaper than their smaller components, design your kitchen with as many 500 and 1000 units as possible to keep the cost down

3) Leave about 100mm gap between the end of your units to the end wall. This will then allow standard corner units to be used, and allows for any irregularity within the square of your room

4) Where worktops are to be joined, get a professional to create a jigged masons mitre. These will cost you about £50 a joint, but are millions times better than a cheap plastic or steel joint bar

5) avoid glossy work tops, look pretty but scratch very easily, especially when creating a joint with router or jig saw

Hope these pointers help

David

[Bob Watkinson]

Thanks for that. What trade should I look up in the Yellow Pages to cut the work tops? Kitchen Fitters I guess.

[ARWadsworth]

Joinery?

Adam

[D. A. Hicks]

A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this very purpose. Most joiners do not

[Vass]

B&Q do an online design program now utilising their units its just to give an impression mind beware MFI, B&Q etc all add extra panels that really are not needed i.e. each side where a washing machine is to be installed, why add panel that wont be seen ???

[Rod]

Ikea have an online ktchen designer as well

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[Bob Watkinson]

Yes this is what I've heard too

[Jo]

Thanks Vass

Jo

[ARWadsworth]

Any decent joiner will have the jig and router. Ring around for a quote from both.

Adam

[kitchenman]

If you are near me email me have van will travel I do worktops for a living

[Bob Watkinson]

I think you're in Essex. I'm in Perthshire or I would.

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