1. Do I have to have a CORGI registered plumber to replace a gas hob
which has a bayonet hose connection, with a new gas hob? I'll just be
reconnecting with the bayonet connection and not touching the pipework
in any other way.
2. Is it ok to run gas pipes under floorboards. The reason I ask is
that when I rerouted a gas pipe through a cavity wall I sleeved it in
PVC pipe as per regs so that there could not be a build up in the
cavity should a leak occur. But, I've seen gas pipes run under ground
floor and first floor floors and I would say there's as much chance of
a gas build up there. So, is it ok to run them under floorboards?
No - but the Plumb Center may refuse to sell you the bayonet pipe if you are
not Corgi registered  - but some of the 'sheds' will happily sell you one
without a query!
No problems there - just remember where the pipe is if you have to re-nail a
squeaking floorboard. :-)
 I have a theory that the storeman in this particular depot is running
a bit of a scam with a mate to install cookers etc whenever a 'grey haired
old wrinkly' asks for such an item - when I asked him to quote me the
particular part of the regs stopping the sale of such items to non-Corgi
registered customers he couldn't answer me.
And neither did the Customer Support at the Plumb Center head office respond
to my e-mail asking the same question - and I asked very politely on both
occasions I may add. :-)
Plumbase were running ads in the trade publications a few months ago,
stating they wouldn't sell gas components to non-Corgi registered
They don't have to sell you something if they don't want to.
Plumbase charge extortionate amounts for non-trade account customers,
as much as they think they can get you to part with,; this includes
non-gas components. Ghastly rip-off merchants.
Get it from Scewfix.
I fully accept that - but when I know more about a subject than a 'snotty
nosed' storeman who has yet to shave the first signs of 'bum-fluff' off his
face, it gets a bit annoying - expecially when you try to explain the phrase
"competent person" to him!
As a matter of fact, I simply jumped in the car and went to an independent
plumbing suppliers (who *know* what they are talking about and got the part
with no problems.
Out of interest, I was collecting the pipe for my son - who has an HNC in
mechanical engineering, works in the electronics industry travelling
worlwide, and just 'happens' - as part of his job - to work with gases that
if released into the atmosphere can kill in seconds.
So I would have thought him more than competent to fit a simple bayonet
ended, flexible pipe carrying natural gas!
I was 'in building the trade' from 1964 to 2001 - it just happens that this
particular Plumb Center is within walking distance - and I really need the
I know of better, local places than Screwfix to get most of my supplies
from - and with some amazing discounts that Screwfix will not give.
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:59:52 +0100, Tanner-'op wrote:
So how does working with gases which "if released into the atmosphere can
kill in seconds" have anything to do with working with gases which are
burned to produce heat, in appliances the installation and commissioning of
which is subject to entirely different regulations? It's like saying that
someone with expertise in handling poisons is automatically qualified in
It seems clear that you have no idea of the other factors which have to be
taken into account besides fitting the hose - or indeed whether it is
legal to fit a hose in the circumstances the OP describes. I just hope
your son has more clue.
I found this reply to the same question on Yahoo answers here:
No, legally you cannot remove the cooker yourself, even if it is a
bayonet fitting, you have to leak test (which should not be done with
detergent or soap, that is illegal), if there is a leak, you have to
be able to test the metre, repair the leak and test the metre again,
(the bayonet should really be removed anyhow if the present occupiers
are moving out, and the pipe capped), when the cooker is re-installed,
if there is no bayonet, one has to be fitted, so the metre has to be
tested there too, anti tilt mechanism also has to be installed,
clearances to sides and height have to be checked, then the cooker
pressure tested and the thermostat and safety devices have to be
checked. Know what i am talking about? No? Neither do a good half of
your previous answerers. Rant over, sorry but I get annoyed with
people on here who are quite willing to put lives at risk by giving
wrong answers for the sake of 2 points.
He seems to be saying it's a definite no no. Any comments on his
Might be worth putting that in quotes - for a moment it sounded like you
getting out of your pram! ;-)
Point worth noting at this point in case you were not aware both John S
and Ed who have responded to parts of this thread are CORGIs.
To address specific points in the above - yes many of them are
technically correct as I understand it (but note I am not CORGI). You
should leak test after remove or reinstatement. As a minimum this should
be with a proper leak test spray, or preferably by doing a full pressure
drop test with a manometer at the test point on the meter. Bayonet
fittings are not intended for long term isolation and hence should be
capped when not in use. Anti tilt device etc should be present as
In addition there are a bunch of regulations regarding appliances like
cookers, especially wrt to the ventilation and air volume requirements.
Clearances will also be specified by the manufacturer.
On a more practical level, whether it is right or wrong to disconnect a
bayonet fitting yourself is a moot point, since you chances of getting a
CORGI out to do just that are going to be slim.
Well he would do, he's been corgi registered for 28 years. As has been
pointed out, it's competance, not registration that you want to worry about.
Many Corgi registered fitters fail the competance test.
As a house-owner, I'm *far* more concerned about any small leaks than a
"hit'n'run" gas fitter and consequently have my own manometer for leak
testing. Of course there's more to fitting a hob than leak testing and it's
possible that regulations may have changed since your last hob was fitted so
you can't necessarily assume that a straight swap will meet regs.
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 05:14:10 -0700, clangers_snout wrote:
You can remove the cooker yourself (e.g. for cleaning): that's what the
bayonet connector is there for.
Apart from that (and the spelling) the quoted advice is connect with
respect to (re)installing a cooker.
What do you mean, talking about it isn\'t oral sex?
I was walking through a residential area on Sunday.
Noticed loads of fairly recent combi installations;
classic copper gas pipe round the outside, flues of
various types, and a bit of pressure relief pipework.
I probably saw well over 50 on a wide variety of houses
and flats (would be lots of different installers), and
not a single one had the gas pipe sleaved - all just
mortared around (or in some cases, not even that).
Is this something CORGI inspectors never check?
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Obviously not. The rules are clear though.
Page 172 of the Domestic Natural Gas Handbook 4 says
"All pipes that pass through a wall or floor of a building must be sleeved.
This applies to all walls not just load bearing walls. (Gas Safety
(Installation & Use) Regulations. Part D Regulation 19 (2b))
The sleeve should be sealed
1) Between the sleeve and the brickwork
2) On the inside between the sleeve and the pipe, with fire resistant
mastic. The sleeve should normally be sealed at one end only, preferably to
open air, where applicable. In the case of meter boxes the sleeve should be
sealed at the point of entry to the building.
On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 02:01:17 -0700, clangers_snout wrote:
No, but you have to be competent which means: You'll know that in all
cases (except where the manufacturer explicitly states you /must/ use a
bayonet connector) you will be dispensing with the connector and using
Yes but the method is deprecated.
The reason I ask is that
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
I know (think) that was supposed to be sarcastic, but actually it
probably *is* better to run it unprotected round an outside wall. It
is more likely to develop a leak on an outside wall, but a small gas
leak there will just disperse. Under a floor, it is less likely to
develop a leak - but the potential damage if a leak /does/ develop is /
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