Should I go with a semi-transparent or solid stain after all this sanding?

Those dark spots are usally deep-seated tannins or old mold spores that 80 grit just won't reach without gouging the wood. If you go with a light semi-transparent, those spots will definitely stand out like a sore thumb. Your best bet is to lean into a mid-to-darker tone like a **walnut or chestnut** brown. The pigments in those darker oil-based stains are much better at masking the remaining gray/black grain without completely hiding the wood's character like a solid stain whould. Whatever you do, stay far away from solid stains. They look good for exactly one season before they start peeling like a bad sunburn, and then you're stuck in a nightmare loop of stripping and sanding every single year. Since you've allready put in the heavy lifting to get back to bare wood, stick with a high-quality oil-based penetrating stain. Brands like **TWP 1500** or **Ready Seal** are usually the standard becuase they're easier to apply and won't leave those nasty lap marks. I've found that the darker pigments "cheat" the eye by blending the shadows of the weathered wood with the stain itself. Just make sure you do a test patch on an inconspicuous corner first. Different lumber species—wheather it's pressure-treated pine or older cedar—take the pigment differently, and you don't want to find out it's too dark after you've coated the whole deck. Also, make sure you neutralized that stripper properly with the brightener. If the pH is still off, the oil won't soak in right and it'll just sit on the surface. If water beads up on the wood right now, you aren't ready to stain yet. But once it's down, a good oil stain only needs a light cleaning and a maintenance coat every two or three years. No more heavy sanding after this.

I'm in the same boat with an old cedar deck and my back is also wrecked from all that sanding. How long are you guys letting the wood dry after the brightener before you acutally start with the oil? I'm worried about trapping moisture in there if I rush it.

Also, for those darker stains like walnut, do you use a brush or one of those big floor pads? I'm looking for the easiest way to get an even coat without it looking all patchy.

Grab a cheap moisture meter instead of guessing on the dry time. You want 15% moisture or lower before you open a can. If the wood is still damp inside, the oil won't penetrate and you’ll be back to square one by next summer. For application, use a floor pad on a pole to save your spine, but keep a brush handy for the gaps. The real secret is "back-brushing"—it forces the oil into the fibers so you don't get splotches. If you’re working in the heat, do small sections so the stain doesn't flash-dry before you can even it out.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast beyond just the rain. If you’re working in direct midday sun, the wood can get so hot it literally cooks the oil before it can soak in deep. I usally start at dawn or wait for a solid overcast day to give the wood time to drink it up.

Also, huge safety tip: since you're using oil-based stuff, do not just pile up your used rags. They can actually self-combust. Keep a bucket of water handy to toss them in as you go. It sounds like overkill until your trash can starts smoking.