Just finished my first deck project for the in-laws — a few observations

I remember my first big build back in '19 when I put in a 12x16 platform for my parents. I underestimated how many 80lb bags of Quikrete I’d need for the footings, and my lower back didn't forgive me for a week. Working near those low brick edges is always a pain beacuse you're constantly on your knees checking the laser level or trying to shim things up just right.

Your advice about staging is spot on. I used to keep my miter saw on the lawn, but after a sudden rainstorm and tripping over offcuts of pressure-treated 2x6s, I learned to clear a 10-foot radius around the workspace. It’s those awkward corners, like your outbuilding, that realy eat up the time. I had to scribe around a downspout on my last project and spent three hours just on three boards. Glad your grandma is alredy using it. There's somthing satisfying about seeing the furniture go out even when the yard still looks like a construction site. I ussually keep a shop vac and a big magnetic sweeper handy for those leftover screws in the grass; they’re a nightmare for lawnmower tires later.

I actually went the opposite route with the footings when I built a similar 10x12 spot for my sister’s garden shed. Instead of hauling the Quikrete, I used those TuffBlock deck supports. They are a lifesaver if you have hard-packed ground because you skip the digging and the heavy lifting altogether. My back is way too old for those 80-pound bags, and I found it much easier to level the joists by just shimming the blocks as I went. Regarding that outbuilding, I’ve found that leaving about a two-inch gap between the rim joist and the structure helps a lot with airflow. On my last build, I tried to frame it tight against an old storage room and ended up with a bunch of moisture trapped against the siding after the first big rain. It makes the trim work a bit more fiddly, but it saves the wood from rot in the long run. I’ve never been good at keeping a big staging area clear either. My trick is usually to cut everthing to length on the driveway first and then bring it over in small batches. It keeps the lawn from getting smothered under the pressure-treated lumber for too long, which usually keeps the family happier than having the whole yard look like a construction site for a week.

Framing around that outbuilding's always a nightmare. I had a similar setup with an old shed last year and ended up wasting half a day just getting the joists right so it didn't look wonky. It's a total time sink.

You gotta watch out for that old incinerator bin too. If you're gonna light it up, keep it far from the new boards. You don't want sparks leaving char marks on a fresh build. It’s a pain to sand those out later.

You mention that low brick wall—hope you checked your pitch. I’ve seen plenty of guys butt the rim joist right up against the masonry without a gap or flashing, and five years later the wood is mush from the backsplash. We used to use heavy copper strips before this modern tape was everywhere. Also, skip the fancy tech for leveling. A clear plastic tube and some water is how we used to get it done. It’s foolproof and won't fail you in the bright sun. Just make sure you didn't trap any moisture behind that hose reel area or you'll be pulling those boards up in no time.

Since you just finished screwing down the last board, you really need to get a coat of TWP 1500 Series on there before the weather hits it. I’ve tried the generic sealers and they always peel, but TWP actualy soaks in and preserves the grain. Since your back is already killing you from the cement, don’t bother with a hand brush. Just grab a pump sprayer and you can coat the whole platform in twenty minutes. It’ll stop those boards from checking and warping, especially in those tight spots near the brick wall and the hose reel.