I own a home (about 83 yrs. old) with a stone foundation that is about
14" thick. In the rear of the home I have a walk our basement and
would like to install a new insulated steel door. Currently there is a
screen door with a pretty shotty wood frame. The best I can tell (if I
were to remove the screen door and frame) I would have about 34-35" of
clearance. Can anyone provide any tips on an install and if I should
be looking for a specific frame type? I'm trying to maintain at least
30" of clearance (for moving purposes) and although I would rather not
but would if necessary have a custom door made. Thanks.
Just installed two steel doors in my home, front door w/storm and service
door in the garage. Neither fit exactly and had to modify the wood framing.
Suggest you visit your local building products store (I purchased from
Menards) and pick up a brochure on the door you like. Plan on framing in
the opening to accept the new door with wood (door will be smaller than
current of course). If the opening is not high enough, plan on going special
order as the only the threshold height is semi-adjustable - nothing else).
I would really recommend the services of a contractor as it's not as easy as
it looks (experience talking - grin).
Rough opening of a 30 inch door is 32 inches. This allows for shims etc.
I would bolt on 2x4 or 2x6 or whatever jamb would work
you could lead anchor, concrete screw, epoxy the bolts into the masonary and
make sure the heads are flush with the rough jamb.
I would plumb these level, top, plumb sides.....
I would fill the space inbetween the masonary and rough jamb with good
adhesive caulk or mortar mix.
You could stuff insulation and or spray foam in this too.
I would install a standard 30 inch door with frame to rough jamb with screws
and use shims to plumb it up.
I would trim accordingly.
Use of a pressure treated jamb or bug proof jamb would be adviseable.
It can be done
What I found in my own case wasn't that there was a problem with the width,
it was the new doors where a little higher. That's where the real problems
came into play. The header need to be sawed to remove around 1/2" (over 3/4"
in the garage). Fairly easy on wood, but could present much more problems in
masonry for the average homeowner. Reason I advised getting the door specs
prior to buying is because doors today seem a little higher than those sold
a few decades ago.
BTW, I prefer foam for all caulking needs. Only $5 can at Menards (might
even be cheaper other places), and one can goes a long way.
I'd probably go with a 32" door mounted on 5/4" jambs and an aluminum
threshold with vinyl weatherstripping bulb. I'd drill into the mortar
joints and install lead anchors and bolt each jamb to the stone in
four places (counterbored and plugged holes unless you like exposed
fasteners). Then low-expansion spray foam between the jambs and the
stone. Scribe some 1x stuff for the casings and have the casing sit
tight against the stone. Prime and paint all six sides of every board
Call your local building supply house and ask how much for a custom
made 32" in that configuration. It'll probably be less than you think
as long as you don't ask for custom fiberglass.
I've installed 3 doors in masonry openings in my home. I don't know about
your specific case, but you may need to frame it out with PT wood.
The mortar around the stone may be too soft to hold anchors, so consider
buying an impact drill and drilling into the stone, and use Tapcons.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.