He had a sign made at a sign shop -- 3 ft. x 6 ft. -- made from 3/8 inch poly-something pliable plastic with vinyl (I think) lettering. In any case, it's guaranteed for outdoor duty.
My question is regarding mounting. The simplest technique would be to simply locate and level the sign and put Liquid Nails on the wall (tilt-up concrete building with stucco texture) and slap on the sign and secure it while the LN sets.
Any suggestions, observations, constructive criticism?
Just make sure you can legally hang the sign in the area where your shop is.
I did a friend a favor a few years ago by helping him hang a sign on the side of his building and up came a city inspector was not happy with us because my friend did not pull a permit. :-(
I don't like the construction adhesive idea because sooner or later that sign is coming back down. It'll stick too well to the wall and not well enough to the plastic. Maybe sooner than later when you realize it's
1/16" out of square. How about some furring strips lagged to the wall, with the sign screwed to them?
I put up a bathroom mirror with the LN specified for mirrors and I think I couldn't pull that off without some damage...
My first thought. But he nixed that because the furring or screws may be visible (it's about 10 ft from the ground looking straight up from the front door).
Yes he's particular. That's why he's called the boss...
You can count on a permit being required, erection by certified, bonded, insured, and annointed sign erectors, such sign being constructed of non-carcinogenic, enviro-friendly, and bio-degradable material. Further, the sign will probably have to be certified as not being within 1000' of a school, church, park, library, public building, or car wash.
What provisions have you made (such as netting) to prevent injury by falling letters?
With the risk that if there is water on the restroom floor it will be declared a protected wetlands area, and the entire project, if not the whole building, will be at risk!
Meet me at the corner where the old red barn used to be. Just pull up and flash your lights, and I will come out of the woods, and we'll go to the secret place and discuss this.
Mebbe now, I'll have the money to get my truck painted .........
Was your wall made out of stucco, like in this case?
And what makes you think it doesn't count if there is damage to the wall when the sign falls off?
Tell him the furring won't be visible and that the screws are there to hold the sign on.
I actually don't know how to do this, but I can still just your answers and they seem like those of someone who has made up his mind and isn't really considering the problems or alternatives, despite having asked for help.
When we owned a sign shop we would mount the signs, if the customer paid us to mount the sign, in one of a number of ways; based on what the customer wanted and was willing to pay for.
First thing up is we would use 6 screws to mount this size sign (never use a 2x4 when a 2x6 does just as well). The screws would be mounted, top, bottom and side, 4-5 inches in from the edges. So in your case there would be three along the top and three along the bottom.
We would use, again depending on costs, some form of stand-off, usually about an inch or so, depending on the mounting surface. The rougher the surface, the longer the stand-off; initiallly. You can use washers but we would use a solid plastic rod material. We would cut the rod down to the size we needed and then drill a hole through the center of each stand-off. The sign would be attached to the wall through the stand-offs.
To attach everything to the wall, we would use 2"-3" Tapcons.
If we screwed through the face of the sign, we would use small circular pieces of the same material used to form the letters of the sign and then apply these circular pieces over the screw heads; to hide them and make it "look like" the circles/dots we designed in.
Other additional cost items, which did improve the look of the sign...
We would screw the stand-offs to the wall first (after making the proper measurements and leveling things, of course). Then we would apply a piece of double-sided tape to the back of the sign in each upper corner to form an "L-bracket". To this tape we would stick some soft and light wood, like balsa wood. This wood would then allow us to "hang" the sign on the stand-offs while we made any minor adjustments (hopefully NOT). Then remove the sign, apply some quick- setting epoxy to the face/front/top of the stand-offs and then re "hang" the sign pressing it into the epoxy while the epoxy setup. After a few minutes or so, the epoxy cured enough that we could stop pressing the sign and then remove the wood and tape from the back of the sign.
Another extra cost item was we would pre-paint the stand-offs to match the color of the wall the sign was mounted to. This allowed the stand- offs to disappear and aloow the sign to appear as though it were "floating" of the surface of the wall.
As for how much to stand-off the sign from the wall... In our situations, we did not need to worry about "code". If the sign was legal where it was to be mounted, we just made sure there was enough room that anything that got behind the sign would not get caught, yet close enough to discourage birds from nesting and to allow the sign to "look good".
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