Ripping 1,000 linear feet of tongue-and-groove solo

Oct 11, 2026 Last reply: 3 days ago 3 Replies
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Ripping the tongues off roughly a thousand linear feet of tongue-and-groove solo is the kind of job that punishes a sloppy machine, and the maker was running a coworker's old jobsite saw with a fairly loose fence. The fix was simple and smart: a board got clamped behind the fence so it could not drift, and from there the cuts stayed true.



The whole station deserves a close look. An auxiliary wooden face rides on the rip fence, held with red and black bar clamps, while a lime green featherboard locked into the table keeps each board pressed laterally. Rollers behind and in front mean the only real job is pushing the stock forward, and a beveled board added behind the saw keeps the thin offcuts from angling down, jamming and bowing out. The maker even filmed one of the last passes one-handed to demonstrate the guides, keeping a hand well clear of the blade.



The reason for all this ripping is interesting: the boards go on a porch ceiling with their tongues removed, gapped at 1/16th so any water that gets past the EPDM waterproofing above has an exit path as a third line of defense. The maker figures that should ward off rot and flag leaks before the ceiling suffers. Since the material was already on hand after three years in storage, shaving the tongues off beat buying new stock.



One open thread: the maker admits to forgetting the exact reason the beveled back board was added, and also expects some wood movement outdoors in the Mid-Atlantic region, though not a huge problem.


Clamping a backup board behind that loose fence is the cleverest part of the whole setup to me. It turns a worn-out fence into something dependable for a long run of identical rips, and the cost is just a couple of bar clamps and a board. The trade-off is setup time on every fence move, but for a thousand feet of repeat cuts that seems like a bargain.

Curious how the 1/16th gap was held consistent across a thousand linear feet. Was the spacing dialed in once on the fence and trusted for the entire run, or checked periodically as the boards went through? With a fence loose enough to need clamping behind it, I would worry about drift over that many cuts.

A variation worth considering: sealing all six faces of each board rather than just the backside before it goes up. The maker already painted and sealed the backs, so the extra step is small, and on a covered porch ceiling with drainage gaps, fully sealed boards should slow any moisture pickup and lessen the movement the maker expects outdoors.

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