Lidded box turned from spalted burl

Oct 13, 2026 Last reply: 1 day ago 3 Replies
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The trickiest stage here has to be shaping the outside while the lid and body are only held together by friction and a wrap of red tape. The maker handled it by padding the joint with shop towel on the lathe, taping the two pieces as one, and only checking the fit once the tape came off. That takes steady nerves, and the finished canister stands closed and opened with the joint looking clean.



The stock itself is a lovely pick. The maker bought a block of spalted burl through a weekly online wood auction, and it keeps a natural live edge on one side, which gives the little salt box real character. At the bench, the block was squared and marked with a combination square and pencil, its centers were found, and a miter saw took off one live-edge side of the blank. A mallet set the drive spur into those center points, and a roughing gouge brought the blank to a smooth cylinder between the headstock and tailstock.



From there the sequence is tidy: a parting tool and handsaw split the cylinder into body and lid, a four-jaw scroll chuck held the body for hollowing, a Forstner bit on the tailstock drilled it out, and a carbide turning tool finished the interior with a lip tenon. The lid was chucked separately and bored to match the base's inner diameter. Gouges shaped the outside profile and domed top, then the exterior was sanded through the grits, finished, and buffed while spinning, with a rotary sanding pad and buffing wheel tidying the underside. Finish went on from a tin with blue shop towels, and a heated branding iron stamped the base last.



One open point: the tin's contents are never named, so the exact finish is a mystery. I would also like to know how that tape joint survived the gouges, since any slip there would ruin both halves at once.



Project by Birdie Buster Golf . Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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The taped friction fit is the choice I keep coming back to. Shaping the domed top through red tape means the joint is only as strong as a wrap of tape and a towel pad, so the trade-off is risk versus a perfect match between lid and body grain. Getting both halves shaped as one seems like the smart way to keep the live edge flowing across the seam.

What was actually in the tin that went on with the blue shop towels? The maker never names the finish, and I am curious whether it was something brushed on or wiped over. Also, when the lid was bored to match the base's inner diameter, was the fit checked on the lathe before the two pieces were taped together, or only after the tape came off?

A worth-trying variation: instead of the red tape, the maker could mount the lid on a jam chuck turned in the same blank's waste, so the outside profile gets shaped with the lid held mechanically rather than by friction and tape. It would remove the worry of the joint letting go mid-gouge and leave no tape residue to clean off before the finish and buffing stages.

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