Just wrapped up the 24x28 unconditioned barn build

I did a similar 20x30 pole barn setup last summer where we opted for the 1x6 let-in diagonal bracing instead of OSB sheathing. Getting those cuts to sit perfectly tight against the studs while keeping the wall plumb was a headache for the first few sections. I found that using a 12-inch speed square and a sharp chisel helped, but I still had to shim a couple of corners to stop the racking. Seeing the raw skeleton is a nice touch, though I ended up hitting mine with a clear coat of Thompson’s just to keep the sawdust from sticking to the grain. The trimless look is bold. I tried that on a studio shed using James Hardie panels, but I struggled with the expansion gaps looking messy over time. Using that dark charcoal stain shoud help hide any minor movement in the wood as it seasons. For my awning, I used 6x6 Douglas Fir posts and some heavy-duty Simpson Strong-Tie black powder-coated connectors to get that same heavy-timber feel. It’s alot of extra work on the front end, but not having to mess with soffit vents or trim rot in five years makes it a solid choice.

I went a diffrent route on my last shop build near the coast. Since we deal with high wind loads, I couldn't risk skipping the sheathing, but I hated the look of standard OSB. I ended up using 3/4-inch CDX plywood and left it exposed on the interior, then used Simpson Strong-Tie WB vertical bracing for the extra lateral support. It didn't give me that open-stud look you have, but the structural peace of mind was neccesary for my zone.

That trimless detail looks sharp, but I’ve always been nervous about water getting behind the siding without a proper casing to divert it. On a similar modern shed, I used Z-flashing tucked behind the charcoal panels and used alot of OSI Quad Max sealant to keep the moisture from rotting the headers. I'm curious how you handled the drip edge on those black-framed windows without a sill. For the ridge beam, I usally rent a material lift to get those heavy 6x12s into place, expecially when working solo. It’s a lot of weight to hang out there for a projecting look. I used GRK structural screws instead of traditional bolts for the awning brackets to keep the hardware low-profile. It realy cleans up the transition where the timber meets the siding.

I'm still learning the basics, so I'm curious about the diagonal bracing. If you don't use the plywood sheathing, how do you acutally attach the siding to the studs without the whole thing feeling flimsy? Does it make it harder to hang stuff on the walls later on? I'd love to try a small shed with that raw skeleton look but I'm worried I'd mess up the angles and the whole thing whould just lean.

I am obsessed with that dark charcoal stain! I’m just starting to learn the ropes, and seeing that exposed skeleton has me so hyped to try a small build. Does the dark color soak up a ton of heat in the summer? I'm worried my workspace would turn into a sauna if I go that dark. Also, what kind of hinges did you pick for the hay loft door? I want something that looks beefy but still matches the modern, trimless style without looking like an old-school farm.