*Cardboard*? Are you joking? I thought that junk had gone the way of teh
dinosaurs. I saw it being used on townhouses in Maryland in the 80's - the
stuff started to warp and fray (i.e come apart) even as the places were
being built. Chunks would fall off the corners. OK< so they had a type of
gum-wrapper-thin metal flashing on one side. Big deal. That also started
to peel off even as the complexes were being built.
Just an "FYI".
I don't know whether plywood has a higher R value than does a solid piece
of the same dimensions; I know that one of my woodworking books lists at
least some info re: the R-value range for wood, want me to look that up?
The info is for solid wood. I don't know where to find that info re:
plywood, unless it's somewhere that Google (etc.) can find it.
Thanks Kris and Don...
As Kris and Don point out, that *ten-test* is the stuff
parents and friends used, and yes I won't, I'll go 3/8
or 1/2 plywood on the exterior walls prior to erection,
and pre-stain until owner decides the permanent clad.
What some of the more expensive houses here have, also many of the rehab of
old (esp. as in, pre-1930's and back to the early Colonial period of
history), is something called "Tyvek" put over the sheathing. SOmetiems
it's only aaround the window frames, but I've occasionally seen it where
looks as tho' it's put over *all* the sheathing. My guess is that it's
some sort of vapor barrier, tho' I'd think it'd also cut down on drafts.
Time for the experienced Specifier to step in:
Tyvek is an "air barrier" over the sheathing, should completely cover
surfaces, except for door and window etc. openings.
Insulating sheathing works fine as long as plywood is used for first 4
ft ea way at each corner. This 4 ft is exclusive of openings. ie: if
an openng is 2 ft from corner, plywood needs to extend to 2 ft on
other side of opening. This plywood is for shear - wind resistance.
Studs should be 2 x 6 to allow for insulation and air space.
Foil faced insulation may be used to provide vapor barrier at interior
face of studs. All vapor barrier joints must occur over solid
backing and arranged around perimeter of openings so that subsequent
construction will provide mechanical seal. Paper face on insulation
is not a vapor barrier, regardless of what some claim. Paper faced
insulation should be covered with minimum 6 mil polyethylene sheet to
form vapor barrier on interior face of wall. It is not advisable to
trust paneling to provide vapor barrier. You need taped seals, etc.
around electric outlets and other penetrations. This is near
impossible with a single material.
Thanks, read this over a few times, a lot info.
Some paneling is quite glazed and is readily washable,
it *looks* like the amount of moisture going threw it
would be nil. I suppose the manufacturer would know, the
retailers don't, we asked.
Of course doing outlets etc is always a pain.
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