Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum. Thanks,
Rob
Use (2) 2x12's with a 1/2" plywood flitch plate, as long as there is not a concentrated load over it.
Hi, thanks for the response... Do you mean a metal plate sandwiched between two 2x10s? Is this something I construct myself, or do I buy it this way? I'm also trying to picture how it would look when installed? A lot of garage doors in the area seem to have a visible piece of metal near the header, visible from the outside of the garage, that runs the length of the garage and is parallel to the horizon. I don't know what that is???
-r
Hi, I'm not designing the structure or the opening. I'm merely asking so that I can be knowledgeable when speaking with, or selecting contractors and also when determining if they are doing the job properly. I didn't plan on doing the job myself unless I felt it was within my sphere of experience which, thanks to many of the comments posted here and in other groups, I now feel confident that it really is not.
Cheers, Rob
If you're using standard trusses or rafters and there is no concentrated load over the opening you can use a 1/2" plywood flitch plate. Nail it through with 3" (not 3-1/2") 16d's every 6" staggered (thats a lotta nails, use a gun), so you don't split the wood. Build the beam on the concrete floor than hoist it up into position. You'll need a friend or two to do the hoisting. Don't forget the DOUBLE jack studs on each end. If you're hiring profesionals to do this they already know how its done.
I have no idea what that is. Post a pik somewhere and I'll take a look. A flitch plate would not be visible because its BETWEEN the (2)
2x12's. You must be talking about some sort of external trimwork or something. Dunno.
I wouldn't wish that on YOUR worst enemy. Those things are basically junk. #3 dense wood, huge nominal spacings, cheap connectors, knots everywhere, etc. A friend has one and its windyer inside than out. Not much better than a tarp and some tent poles but alot more expensive.
Ken S. Tucker> wrote: and those specs are written up in the local
Quit hogswitchin'. You know better than that.
You've SEEN that huh?
oky-doky.........
Frame it square and plumb, then sheath it in plywood with 8d ringshanks. This isn't rocketry, cave men did it.
The header would be the same whether its attached or not.
There's either trusses or rafters or a skyhook over the door.
yes
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