I’ve been messing around with my portable Nuvelle AC setup because the negative pressure from the single hose was driving me crazy. basicly, I’ve shoved the whole back of the unit directly into the window frame and used a bunch of foam blocks and cardboard to seal the gaps. The idea is to let the exhaust blow straight out the back without needing that bulky hose that radiates heat back into the room. It seems to be working since the thermostat is hitting 25C pretty easily now. The benefit is that it's draining the condensation right outside too, which saves me from emptying that annoying tank every few hours. But I'm starting to wonder if this is actually a smart move or if I'm just putting too much strain on the compressor by having it partially exposed to the elements like this. Some people say it’s better than a DIY dual-hose mod because there's less risk of it overheating, but I'm not totally convinced yet. Has anyone else tried a "thru-the-window" setup like this? I know it looks a bit rough with the cardboard, but if it keeps the room cool without sucking in hot air from the rest of the house, it feels like a win. Is there a major downside I'm missing here, or is this just a decent workaround for people who can't install a permanent unit?
Thoughts on hacking single-hose units vs just buying a window unit?
Jun 14, 2026
Last reply: 1 month ago
6 Replies
I did a similar setup with my old Honeywell MN10CESWW last summer because that single hose was basically a space heater. Sticking the intake and exhaust side out the window definately solves the negative pressure issue, but you have to be careful about the seal. I used that rigid pink XPS foam board instead of cardboard because the cardboard got soggy and warped after a single thunderstorm.
One thing to watch for is the compressor's noise and vibration against the window frame. I ended up having to put some rubber weatherstripping underneath to stop the rattling. Also, if the back of the unit is tilted even slightly inward, you’ll end up with a puddle on your floor instead of it draining outside. I learned that the hard way when my carpet got soaked after a humid night.
As long as you aren't blocking the actual airflow and you've got a decent overhang to protect the electronics from rain, the compressor should be fine. These units are usally tougher than they look. Just keep an eye on the coils to make sure they aren't getting clogged with outdoor dust or pollen since you've essentially bypassed the indoor filter setup for the condenser intake.
I actualy tried that window-mount trick with a Whynter ARC-14S and ended up fried. These portables aren't built like window units; the internal electronics and the compressor housing aren't weather-sealed. After a week of high humidity and a light drizzle, my control board started acting up and eventually the unit just died. You're basicly exposing the 'guts' of a machine designed for indoor use to the elements, wich is a recipe for a short circuit.
Instead of shoving the unit in the window, I went the full dual-hose conversion route using some 6-inch flexible ducting and a plastic intake plenum I fashioned out of a storage bin lid and some Gorilla tape. By feeding the intake directly from a second hole in the window kit, you eliminate that negative pressure without risking the unit to rain or intruders who coud easily push the machine in from the outside. It might not look as 'clean' as your setup, but it’s much safer for the hardware. My bedroom stays at a solid 21C even when it's 33C outside, and I don't have to worry about a sudden storm ruining a $450 appliance. Keeping the unit entirely inside ensures the compressor stays cleaner and actually lasts more than a single season.
Seen plenty of guys try this since the early 2000s when portables first got popular. Reminds me of the old "trough-the-wall" sleeve installs we did in the 70s, except those units were built like tanks. These modern portables have thin aluminum fins that’ll corrode the second they see salt air or heavy smog.
If you're dead set on this, check your start capacitor every season. Running these things out of spec puts a hell of a load on the electrics that they weren't wired for. Honestly, you're better off finding an old Montgomery Ward window shaker at a yard sale; it'll outcool that plastic Nuvelle and won't care about a little rain.
Have you ruled out exhaust recirculation? Since the intake and exhaust are now sitting flush in the same window frame, those fans often end up sucking thier own hot discharge air back in. I’d be worried you’re creating a localized heat loop that spikes the head pressure. Have you actualy measured the temp of the air going into the condenser intake? If it's way hotter than the actual outdoor temp, you're just overworking the compressor for no reason.
This is so awesome! I’m brand new to the sub and honestly seeing people hack their gear like this is exactly why I joined! I’m still trying to figure out the best way to seal my own window without it looking like a construction site. On a totally diferent note, has anyone here ever messed with those reflective 'space blanket' films on the actual window glass? I’ve heard they can drop the room temp by like 5 degrees before the AC even turns on, but I’m worried it might make my neighbors think I’m running a lab in here!
You're gonna kill that fan motor way faster than you think. Those internal blowers aren't built to push against outdoor wind. If a solid gust hits the back while it's running, it'll stall the fan or make it draw way too many amps. I've seen 'em burn out in one summer when they're rigged like that.
Honestly, if you're alredy cutting foam and cardboard, just go buy a cheap window unit. They're actually made for the weather and use half the power of a portable anyway. Save yourself the headache before that Nuvelle starts smelling like burnt plastic.
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