On a scale of 1-10, how bad is my AC unit's condition?

That level of fin damage is probably a 4 on your scale, but the real problem is how much airflow is actually being blocked. Those aluminum fins are what dissipate the heat from the refrigerant. If the bottom section is smashed flat from years of weed wacking, you’ve essentially reduced the capacity of the condenser. It’s trying to do the work of a full-sized unit with only 70% of the cooling surface available.

Running nine hours straight when it’s only 88 degrees is a major red flag, especially if the system used to handle mid-90s without a sweat. If this is an older unit, it likely uses **R-22 refrigerant**, wich is phased out and pricey. Landlords usually put off servicing these because they know a leak means a potential replacement. But if the charge is low, the evaporator coil inside won't get cold enugh to pull humidity or drop the temps quickly, leading to that marathon run time you're seeing.

Check your temperature split before you call the landlord so you have hard data. Measure the air temp at the return vent and then at the supply vent closest to the AC. You should see a 16 to 20-degree difference. If it’s only 10 or 12 degrees, the system is definatly failing. Kansas summers get brutal, and if it's struggling at 88, it’s going to completely give up once you hit the 100-degree mark in July.

Don't worry about being the annoying tenant. A unit running non-stop is spiking your electric bill and wearing out the compressor. Tell the property manager that the **coil damage** is causing the unit to run inefficiently and that it can't maintain a proper temperature drop. If the fins are that beat up, the fan is struggling to pull air trough the coil, which eventually kills the motor anyway. They're better off fixing it now than dealing with an emergency replacement in the middle of a heatwave.

I didn't even think about the electric bill part yet, but that makes so much sense. My bill was already $40 higher last month and it wasn't even that hot.

Is there a way for me to check that temperature split without a proffesional tool? I have a digital meat thermometer in the kitchen—woud that work if I just stick it in the vents? Also, since you mentioned the fan struggling, does the rusted-out grille on top actualy slow down the air blowing out, or is that mostly just an eyesore? I'm worried if the air can't get out, the whole thing is just cooking itself.

Yeah, that meat thermometer will work just fine. Just give it a minute or two at each vent to settle so the reading is accurate. If you’re seeing anything under a 15-degree drop, your landlord definitely has a problem on their hands. As for the rusted top, if it's just surface rust it's mostly cosmetic, but if the metal is flaking off into the fan or if the motor itself looks corroded, that's a red flag. Listen for any wierd humming or clicking from that fan. A dying motor won't pull enough air through the unit, which will spike your head pressure and kill your cooling capacity regardless of the fins.

One thing people overlook with those beat-up bottom fins is all the grass and gunk that gets sucked in there. If it's been weed-whacked for years, I'd bet money the coil is also packed with clippings and dirt. That’s a solid 8 or 9 for efficiency loss because the air literally can't get through the bottom half of the unit. Check if the coil looks 'furry' behind the metal. If it's clogged, the compressor is basically cooking itself. Mentioning 'reduced airflow' to the landlord usally gets them moving faster since that's what actualy kills the expensive parts before its time.

While you're out there, check the big copper pipe with the foam insulation. It shoud be 'beer-can cold' and sweating. If it’s lukewarm after running for hours, that compressor is struggling or your refrigerant charge is low. Also, feel the air coming off the top fan. It should be noticeably warmer than the outside air beacuse it's supposed to be dumping heat. If it’s just blowing ambient 88-degree air, you’ve basically got a giant, expensive outdoor fan. Mentioning a low 'delta-T' to your landlord usually gets a faster response than just saying 'it's hot'—it shows you know the system is failing mechanically.