My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.
Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for whatever life it has left.
Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something better? It's made of redwood.
Yellow glue will work for a while. You would be better off with a clear epoxy glue.
Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton? Is there one that's better for wood.
I've worked with yellow glue for a long time and have a feel for how to use it. I always seem to have a few problems with epoxy -- and I seem to always get it all over myself. It's like those plastic peanuts that literally fly out of the box and arrange themselves all over me. Still, not as bad as crazy glue, which I am convinced is named for the users, not the glue itself.
Stay away from the quick (1-5 minute) stuff.
If you are anywhere near a West Marine store they will have West System in all kind of kits which will include mixing sticks, mixing cups, gloves, etc.
May be a little pricey, but it's "One Stop Shopping" and probably every clerk in there has done some epoxy repair of some kind.
Have fun.
Lew
Livermore? Well, shucks, you're just up the road a piece. 'course, right now, you're a mite hard to get to with the Bay Bridge shut down. ;-) Maybe we'll stop on by and take a gander.
I called around and no one carries T-88. What about Gorilla Glue?
I think just yellow glue would be insufficient as it is not outdoor nor waterproof.
- shear strength is needed in the repair that the glue may not be able to provide.
I would suggest epoxy, as it is waterproof, and can give the strength needed. Depending on the break, consider adding a spline or biscuit to ensure shear strength is added back. This might make a nearly invisible repair.
The son who built the chair, may have a recommendation. He may even still have the pattern and be able to produce a new arm.
Yep, there's one about 20-30 minutes away. But with my history with epoxy, wouldn't I be in mortal danger with a marine epoxy? I'd hate to get my mast stuck to the wrong thing...
The problem with "good epoxy" is that it doesn't come in mini usage packaging. There are a number of brands ... West System, Cold Cure, System Three, East System , MAS....
I agree that you should not use the 5 minute syringe" type.
Given your admissions, If you are near any Marinas or boat repair / boat builder - they work with epoxy all the time, and might be worth the call, or wait until the bridge is back in operation and have Sonomaproducts look at it.
IIRC "the bridge" was back in action for rush hour traffic this morning. At least the news indicated that.
I know it sounds crazy, but..................
READ THE DIRECTIONS FIRST.
BTW, you have all variety of epoxy retaiklers in the Bay area.
You are not limited to W/M.
Have fun.
Lew
Everybody's suggesting epoxy, but wouldn't this be a good candidate for Titebond III? I've used it on some exterior repairs and so far it's been bulletproof...
When it comes to repairs, quality epoxy is in a class by itself, if for no other reason than it's ability to fill gaps and provide strength in the process.
Again, for outdoor repairs, epoxy is in a class by itself.
Note the emphasis on "REPAIRS".
Lew
I've been using epoxy for probably half your life (a *long* time - LOL) so I'm no stranger to it, but given the condition of the chair and how much life is probably left in it I just think Titebond III would be a no-brainer. There are just so many variables with epoxy; viscosity, fillers, mixing ratios, curing times, special solvents required for cleanup, etc. (not to mention that the good shit is *expensive*). And dried-out redwood is going to *drink* that stuff if it's too runny and/or slow curing; the joint will be weak if that happens. And if it's me, I'm sure as hell going to get little drops of epoxy all over the place; on my fingers, on the workpiece, fingerprints on the workpiece... Just give me some Titebond III and a couple of clamps and I'm done.
Sorry Lew. :-)
I probably have left more epoxy unused in the bottom of the bucket than a 1,000 repairs like this would use.
The point being that since I buy epoxy in 500 pound drums (55 gal), I get a very good price on the stuff so can't really comment on the retail price of epoxy; however, epoxy pricing is very much quantity sensitive.
Prices in the $60-$90 for a gallon kit are not uncommon.
As far as the viscosity issue is concerned, anything above 60F on the low end and out of direct sunlight on the high end works for me.
As far as proper mixing is concerned, throw away plastic cups (1OZ thru 4OZ) insure accurate mixing.
A 30 lb bag of micro-balloons is about $25 which will last most people at least two lifetimes.
Unless you want to develop contact dermatitis, you WILL use disposable latex gloves which leave no fingerprints.
DAMHIKT.
If you need long open times, epoxy and a SLOW hardener will give you
30 minutes with out pushing it.TiteBond II is less than half that, can't comment on T/B III.
Guess the message is that like anything else, if you follow the known epoxy mixing and handling rules, the rewards are worth it.
T/BIII doesn't show me it it worth the shelf space in my shop, but then I'm prejudiced.
Lew
----------------------------------------------- Gorilla glue has some great advertising and a catchy name but every real test I have seen ALWAYS puts it at the bottom of the list in every category.
-------------------------------------------------
Very much over priced and under peckered IMHO.
Lew
It's funny... I have to agree - Gorilla Glue is awful stuff. Everytime I've used it, I've been disapointed. However, Gorilla Tape - now that stuff is incredible. Never found anything close. Wonder why they suck at making glue, but excel with tape?
Awful! Use epoxy, any epoxy.
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