I agree with Greg (not unusual). You'll pay more per
year for insurance on another vehicle than you will per year
for a good trailer.
Question: Has anyone seen a good design for a "log loading ramp"
to go on the back of a trailer, when winching good sized logs
out in the woods?? I just built a "wood gathering trailer",
and the winch mount I built fits on the rear Class 4 hitch on
my GMC Yukon, and has a trailer hitch on IT so I can winch onto
the trailer. It's already MUCH easier than loading wood up at the
pickup bed level, which I've done for years. BUT there's that
"Get one end of the log up onto the trailer" part. I once
saw a photo of a drop-on ramp that would 'help' the log up
and was moveable right-to-left for different logs in a load.
But I don't remember it well...
Anyone seen or built one, before I try to invent one??
It needs to have somewhat of a Vee shape, to guide a log end
up and on... I think. Large round tubing is what I got, other
steel I can get. Cut, weld, and like that.
I'll post a pointer to the whole deal when I get it all working.
Which better be soon.
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
Glad I'm not the only one.
On both scores, really. Not only do I have ~300-pound in-laws, but I also
did the crazy car thing.
I bought all the stuff to build a big project. 3/4" plywood and 2x4s and
stuff. I had to buy stuff small enough to fit in my car, and I was hell
bent on getting it all home in one trip, so I had all these 4x4 sheets and
6' lengths of wood sticking out everywhere. In order to get it all to fit,
I had to slide the driver's seat forward and un-latch the back of the seat.
I literally had my forehead touching the windshield.
So here I go on my merry way with wood sticking out of every window, my
forehead on the windshield, and the suspension making crunching noises
every time I hit the slightest dip in the road. There were two basically
equivalent ways to get home. I took the left turn, for no particular
Right into a *road block*.
So here I am contorted into this mess, nowhere to go, and if I try to turn
around and go the other way, the cops will just chase me down and things
will be a whole lot worse.
So as I ooch through the road block, I somehow manage to contort myself far
enough to extract my license, and maybe my registration. I had managed to
fasten my seatbelt too, I think. Probably.
I finally get my turn, and the cop just looks at me, looks at my car, looks
at me, and says "I hope you're not going far with all that."
"No ma'am, I live just up the street."
"Have a nice day, Mr... Mack... Macken Try."
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < email@example.com>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
This sounds like just the thing I need, too. I have a Jeep Liberty 4x4 that
is rated to tow 5,000 lbs. I have been putting stuff on the roof rack
(probably severely overloading it at times, too) and it is just killing my
back and getting old doing that. Do you have any specifics about your
trailer that might be useful when shopping around for something like this?
I've heard that Harbor Freight sells a kit for a trailer that isn't too bad.
At the place I work, we purchased a "SnowBear" utility trailer from Home Depot.
IIRC, it was about $500. The bed tips, tongue extends, and the axle can be
repositioned to vary the tongue weight. It's been used to haul lumber,
generators, ATV's, steel, sand, gravel, and even a Jet cabinet saw. It work
Buffalo, NY - USA
thanks for the link, Nova, that looks like a pretty useful trailer. I can't
seem to find any purchasing info online, though. The Home Depot in my town
sucks big time, too, and I try to avoid it like the plague. but, maybe
SWMBO will let me spend $500 on a trailer instead of getting a 2nd hand
pickup, which is what I was thinking of doing. Seems fair to me :)
Northern Hydralics and Harbor Freight both have trailer frames with lights and
fenders in the $200-300 range. I am still holding out for a garage sale trailer
in the $50 range but I am a cheap bastard. I am looking for a small boat
trailer that looks like it may have been a "magic tilt" since I already own a
tag for my current boat trailer. Florida is a "no title" state on trailers so
the serial number is moot. You just need some kind of tag. I have even seen box
trailers with "lost tag" and a number painted on them.
I don't know the US market place, but here in UK we use a lot of flat bed
trailers like these.
Wheels are under the bed and all the sides and tailgate can be removed or
hinged down. Materials are either aluminium or galvanised steel. Weights
vary up to 3.5 tons, lengths up to 16 ft. They are very versatile but not
cheap. The market leader is Iffor Williams. Can't find their web site
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:12:00 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"
Every Lowe's in CT sells the trailer, a 4x8 frame of angle iron, with
sides about a foot high. Mine is the cheapest model, with no folding
ramp and a heavy wire mesh floor. I screwed a cheap sheet of exterior
ply to the floor to protect what I'm carrying and add a little weight
when the trailer is empty.
I've had over 1000 pounds in it, measured on our town dump scale, and
towed it all the way to Provincetown, MA and Manchester, NH, with
I prefer this one over the HF one, due to it's larger tires, full 4x8
bed, and heavier weight. The HF is cheaper, so if it'll work for you,
go for it.
I bought Hidden Hitch hitches and harnesses for my Subaru and Jeep
from <http://www.hitchesforless.com . The Jeep required 6 bolts and
about 40 minutes of work, and the Subie 4 bolts and 20-30 minutes.
How big are your tires? HF has two, and 8 inch for ~200 and a 12 inch
tire full 4x8 bed trailer for ~250.
I have the 12" one and have been pleased so far.
The "fold" facter is nifty... slightly inconvenient (in the flat
position, you are supposed to bolt the frame so it won't fold. i plan
to replace the nut/bolts with pins.... or at least wingnuts.)
Took about an extra 100 to do all the title/inspection stuff since
it's from a "kit" so consider the price $350.
We recently towed a 3 foot stack of plywood with a 4cyl saturn. (2000 LS?)
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
hmmmm... must not have been that high.... (at least i hope not.... as
it would have been three times the capacity of the trailer)
it was a mix of 1/2" osb and plywood...not sure how many sheets.
Perhaps i'm thinking how high it was from ground to top of load on the
trailer. you know after busting butt loading it i may not have been
thinking straight... ;)
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 11:10:30 -0400, Philip Edward Lewis
Mine are probably 12". I don't recall having anything but the 8" when
I bought mine.
Many cars can haul decent load, the marketeers want you to believe
you'll need a 3/4 ton truck to pull a 500 pound load. <G>
I bought a 2001 Subaru Outback after several trucks, and I really
don't miss the trucks at all.
Once you have bought a full sized truck, you will never want a
car again. Aside from hauling plywood, trucks can haul damn near
anything and they ride pretty good these days.
Ford,Chevy,Dodge .... they all have the vanilla model for well
They have been selling more trucks than cars for a number of
I am going to throw one more option at you. I have a Dodge Grand Caravan
that will carry full size sheets of plywood with the rear door closed down.
I looked at trucks when I bought this 2.5 years ago, I was in the same
quandry as you. The van gives me the best of both worlds. I have seating for
8, two very comfortable captians chairs in the front and all the bells and
whistles that anyone could ever want. I do not have to remove the seats to
carry plywood sheets, I just lower the backs of the second and third row of
seats, they lay flat and make a great platform for plywood or other sheet
goods, and leave a lot of floor area for carrying other items.
The bed doesn't have to be an eight footer, the critical dimension is the
four foot width over the wheel wells. If a couple of feet of stock hangs out
over the end of the bed it's no big deal but if it hangs over the sides it's
a bitch to tie down.
Though I am not driving one now, my hauling requirements went way up, for my
money you can't beat your little old basic Toyota four cylinder The last
one I had was still going strong when I sold it at 200,000 miles. Mine
wasn't the only one I've seen with that kind of mileage either.
You may want to add an extended cab to that though. Keeps the groceries,
kids and pets out of the rain. .
This might be a four letter word to some folks but a minivan might
also work. The full size minivans (ie Chevy venture, Ford Windstar,
etc) generally will hold 4x8 plywood sheets with the seats removed or
folded. Our Venture will hold plywood flat, and 10' lumber between
the front seats. All with the hatch closed and weather tight.
Bleck, that's what I get for buying a shorty minivan. I have to leave the
rear hatch open to get something home in my MPV (older). Still, I swear,
they must have thought of this when designing minivans. It cannot be chance
that there's exactly the width of a sheet of MDF in there.
============================================I am 60 years old and over the years my needs for a "hauler" have
changed greatly... and I have owned a BUNCH of trucks for that purpose...
SO In my opinion
I do not think there is a good (single) answer to your question...
Today I drive a Little Dodge Dakota pick up which meets todays needs
But 30 or 35 years ago when I was building my house, landscaping my
yard, it would have lacked the "guts" to haul what I needed...as the
years went on and I expanded the house built a few outbuildings, a
couple of garages, etc my needs kept changing.
Today I may need to haul trash to the dump, car parts (body
parts,engines etc .... hobby) maybe a couple of hundred board foot of
lumber or a few sheets of plywood for a wood working project...nothing
exceptionably large or heavy .. so the "little" truck works for me..
I have a 96 ford windstar, and you can carry a 4x8 sheet in the back
with the 2nd and 3rd row seats removed, but the door will NOT close. Its
close though, with just one sheet. The more sheets, the higher the door
is open. I hold the door closed with a rachet strap, either to one of
the seat mounts if I'm carrying planks, or strapped around the passenger
seat if sheet goods. The bad part about this, is there is NO good place
to hook it to the door. There is just the plastic loop thats used to
close it from the inside. I'm sure that someday, this will pull out.
I'm seriously considering a trailer, either find a used one, or build
one. I have the towing package option on my van, so I can look for a
heavier duty trailer than normal.
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