Wiring PM-65 3 ph

I am trying to wire up a Powermatic 65 with orig motor 2hp 3ph. Lots of issues to resolve and I am not an electrician.I also only have a wire diagram for the 66 but the switch box looks much the same. The wiring it came with only had the 3 hot leads red to Li white to L2 and black to L3. There was no 4th green wire but it was wired into the building with metal conduit so maybe that held the ground.
I have a rotary converter. I saw it working when I bought it.3hp 15 amp.
I used 4-12 SO cable to the saw and attached the green to to ground block at the right side of the swithc box, the same one the motor connects to as this is how the 66 doagram shows it.
On my 3 pole 4 wire grounding locking plug on the other end of the cable I put Green to terminal marked G White to X Red to Y Black to Z
The converter has R, G and two Black wires on the plug I tried G to G and Red to Y with Blacks to X and Y
Converter spins up and hums nicely Hit switch on saw, it jumps and hums then after a few seconds he converter changes to a add a little rattle Kill the saw and the converter still rumbles. Kill converter, turn back on hums nice
Switched blacks on plug at converter Start converter, start saw Blows 30 amp 220 breaker in the wall switched blacks back Still blows circut if cable is plugged into converter but converter runs fine by itself.
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with the saw disconnected and the converter running, take a volt meter and check to see if you have 208/240v on all three output terminals of the converter.
A rotary converter is nothing more than a three phase motor with 240 single phase attached to two of the leads and the load connected to all three leads.
Also make sure that the powermatic is wired for 208/240v and not 480v.
basilisk
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OK, I have a multimeter but not exactly sure how to set it. I guess I can look that up and figure it out. So I place the red wire probe on the hot lead and put the black wire probe where? No smart comments please :-)
OK, I didn't think to check the motor wiring. I can do that I think, I have diagrams for both 240 and 480.
Thanks.

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OK, I have a multimeter but not exactly sure how to set it. I guess I can look that up and figure it out. So I place the red wire probe on the hot lead and put the black wire probe where? No smart comments please :-)
I am not sure what you are testing. But generally speaking, if testing an AC outlet/wire, just put a probe on each wire/hole and read off the multimeter. Make sure your settings are correct on the multimeter first.
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You want to measure phase to phase.
e.g. hot to hot.
e.g. L1 to L2 L2 to L3 and L3 to L1.
On the AC scale - and at the range of voltage higher than expected.
You might be shorting a leg.
Martin
Lee Michaels wrote:

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Update: Never did get it to spin with the existing switch no matter how I rewired it. Got it to pop the circuit a few times and finally got some smoke and electrical toast smell. So I pulled open the motor cover, rewired from there to a new 3ph mag switch from Grizzly and it spun right up last night and hums real nice.
While I was waiting for the switch to arrive I went through all the mechanical, new belts, greased the gibs and racks, remounted the top and trued up the blade to miter slot to within .001. (or is it .01?).
I can't believe how smooth this old saw adjusts. Both the angle and height adjustment spin with almost no resistance and both will continue travleling for a second or two if you spin the adjustment real fast and let go. Sweeeet.

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SonomaProducts.com wrote: ...

Yep, that's a Model 66... :)
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dpb wrote:

at it. :-)
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jo4hn wrote: ...

Now ya' gone 'n dun dun it...
'79, picked up at McMinnville... :)
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