Where to mount table saw receptacle

I am converting my saw to 220. For now, I have to mount my receptacle up high so I have to use a longer cord to connect to the saw. This means that some of the cable will be on the floor since I am centering the saw in the 10W x 20 long shop.
I am not sure whether to mount the receptacle in the center of the room, toward the left or toward the right. Given this is a cotnractors saw, the motor is at the back and so is the cord. It looks lie a left mount (me facing saw) is best. Any suggestions?
Keith
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Keith Bozek) wrote:

Mount it where you can reach it easily. You should unplug the saw whenever you do things that require you to get your hands near the blade or belt. If unplugging it means you move three boxes of junk and a pile of wood so you can walk around behind the saw, you're less likely to bother.
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I solved this problem with a heavy duty plug strip mounted on the back of the saw. You could also do it with a "handy box" and a 240v receptacle if you are 240v. Mine is still 120v and this gives me a convienient place to plug and unplug the saw along with a place to plug in other tools in the middle of the room.
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Of you include a cut-off switch on the receptable box and use that to cut power to the saw switch. It's easier than plugging/unplugging a 220V cord and there is less wear and tear on the cord too.
In this case the box should be easily accessible, but should also be far enough from the saw that you cannot accidently bump it while working on the saw.
--

FF

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On 4 Jul 2004 15:18:23 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net (Fred the Red Shirt) wrote:

my preferred location is in the floor, just to the left of the saw, beneath the motor housing on my left tilt saw. it requires a sawdust proof box and/or occasional vacuuming out, but it's convenient and keeps cords out of the walkway.
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How about putting the receptical in the CEILING over the saw location??
John
On 4 Jul 2004 06:26:43 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Keith Bozek) wrote:

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Interferes with cross cutting lengths.
-- Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop

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On Sun, 4 Jul 2004 13:05:20 -0700, "Pounds on Wood"
Not if you think it out. My power and DC connections come from above and to the rear (the operator's front) of the saw. A twistlock connector and flexible 10 gauge power cord complete the setup.
Barry
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because you have to pass the material you are cutting *through* that space.

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That's what I did, as I have concrete floors. Higher ceilings can use drop lines.
Barry
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Could not get your original message, However in my shop we built an outfeed table 8'long attached it to the tablesaw. At the end of the table at ceiling we installed hubbel twist lock receptacles and ran iso cord down under the outfeed table. This has worked well for over 2 years. in addition you could run 110 also in the same manner and have an outlet for your outfeed /now work bench. If you want the extra protection you can get wire grips that attach to the receptacle box itself these slide over the iso cord and work like "Chinese Handcuffs" stresses applied to the cord are transferred to the box instead of the receptacle itself.
William
wrote:

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On or in the floor. That airspace above and around a table saw is too precious to waste with conduit or wiring!
-- DaveinFLL =========================It's not the heat, it's the humidity! =========================(..Think the humidity's bad? You should watch us vote!)
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Keith Bozek) wrote in message

Are you going to hang yourself with the cord or turn the saw on and lay on it?
I once saw a pic of a man who cut himself in half with a band saw. This guy definitely was no Houdini, he left behind a huge mess.
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