What router bit combo to cut a 1/4 by 3/4 slot

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Hello,
Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at many site and went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't figure out what bit and bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4 wide by 3/4 deep.
Thanks
Larry C
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You can use any straight bit 3/4" or smaller and cut against a guide. If you are using a smaller bit, move the guide as necessary to get the width of cut you need. A dado head on a RAS or TS will also do it. A router book would be a good investment. Wilson

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Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock that will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
Larry

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Slot cutter. Router or shaper, I prefer shaper. Depth of cut by bearing selection.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?ID=1

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Look up "slotting cutter bits". I use one for routing out for biscuits. They come in various sizes. Lee Valley Tools is one source.
Bill.
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I don't understand why a 3/4" bit won't work. If the arch is fairly tight - such that a standard sized router base will not sit on it well enough and ensure a consistent depth of cut, then why not use a 3/4" bit in a trim router which has a much smaller base? The smaller base will follow a much tighter radius than a standard sized base will. A trim router may have some trouble cutting with a 3/4" bit in your selection of wood, but if that's the case then go to a smaller bit and cut in two passes by adjusting the edge guide. Dremmel tools and the competing products from other manufacturers can be an equally valid option.
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Op said 1/4" WIDE. Not possible with a 3/4" bit.
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My bad, but my reply to him still stands. So - he routes a 1/4" groove 3/4" deep. That still does not explain why he can't do it.
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L C wrote:

There are slotting bits (imagine the router equivalent of a saw blade) that can be used to make this cut, but this is NOT a cut to make freehand. Because of the depth of cut I wouldn't suggest hand-guiding the work to make the cut on a router table.
Your best bet is to find either a cabinet or sign shop with a CNC router and have them do this for you. They can clamp the workpiece down securely and control spindle speed, feed rade, and spindle motion safely.
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Morris Dovey
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wrote:

I wouldn't have a problem with making this cut on the router table with some featherboards to control the stock. a 3/4" depth wing style slot cutter may be a difficult thing to find though. here's a place to start: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/freud-tools/freudthrewin.html
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snipped-for-privacy@thanks.com wrote:

I wouldn't have a problem with you making this cut, too (because I think you have enough experience to do it safely, or not at all). I inferred from the question that LC doesn't yet have that same level of experience.
Sometimes I think the best advice is to find a pro, someone with the ability to do the job safely, and learn by watching. I'm not bashful about giving myself that same advice - and I almost always learn something new. AND I can still count ten!
Assuming it's available off the shelf, this bit will probably be 2" in diameter (3/4" wing + 1/2" shaft + 3/4" wing) - big enough that I'd unplug the phone and lock the door before I used it. (-:
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Morris Dovey
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I've been following this thread from the very beginning and I don't understand what I'm missing. The original question seemed really straight forward to me - although I must admit, it almost seemed too straight forward. I could not understand how anyone who is even distantly familiar with a router would ask what I was seeing as a very, very fundamental question. That might have been my first clue that I was missing something, but ever the sleuth that I am, I continued to look for more clues. Several of the answers have centered around things like CNC tooling, cutters, levels of experience, etc. So, I'm back to square one - what am I missing here? This seems like a simple route to me.
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Mike Marlow wrote:

I think what everyone is missing is is enough information. Nobody has asked the obvious questions--how large a piece, what radius of curvature on the arch, how close to an edge, is the cut on the face of the arch or on the side paralleling it, and why does it have to be 3/4" deep?
I find it amusing that everyone is proposing solutions without making sure they understand the problem.
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--John
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Agreed - to a point. I did raise the issue of the radius in my original response and suggested a couple of alternatives based on the radius, but your point is well taken all the same. I did not ask for more info because I had already imagined in my mind that he wanted to route the face of a board probably in the area of 6"-8" wide. Don't bother asking how I arrived at that premature conclusion - it ain't pretty. Someone else did raise the question about the 3/4" depth requirement.
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No, it's not. He's routing a groove to receive a panel.
Unless there are some really strange constructions out there, it's the perfect place for a slot cutter.

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Hello,
Thanks for all the responses. To clarify here is what I am trying to do. I have plans that call for a 1/4 x 3/4 groove to receive a 1/4 panel. I have looked at most of the sites Rockler, Freud, Jesada, Amama, etc. I have also emailed some as well with no response yet. I can't seem to find the slot cutter / bearing combo I need. Sould be simple but it has spun me in a little of a circle. I have emailed the creator of the plans to ask if the slot should be 3/8 deep. The arch is close to a 6" segment of a 24" diameter circle ( not that drastic an arch ) and the wood is 3/4 inch stock. I cut the arch on the band saw then use the slot cutter to cut the groove in the arch. I am going to call Freud today and see if I can talk with a person or take a ride to Tools-Tools-Tools in NH this Saturday.
Hope this helps
Thanks again

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I'm unclear whether your slot is straight or curved. If straight, most anything. Straight bit with a guide, table saw with a dado, dado plane . . whatever.
If it's a CURVED slot, then you need to cut a template out of MDF to use as a guide, either for the router itself, or for a top-bearing pattern bit.
If the curve is circular, you can also make a compass jig exactly to fit your router.
You haven't really used a router until you have a dozen jigs under your belt :)_
Were I cutting that deep with a router, I'd take multiple passes and consider UP spiral bits.
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It is not that complex, it is just like making a tounge and groove joint on an piece of 3/4" stock that has a arc cut out of it. The only wrinkle is the plans call for 3/4 in deep slot and I couldn't find a slot bit bearing combo that would leave me with 3/4 inch of slot cutter left outside the bearing. I think I need to just go to a woodworking store and pile through the bits and bearings
Thanks again for all the responses
wrote:

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Okay. In that case, I'd use a guide for the router and a straight up-spiral bit. Take multiple passes.
Check your plywood. You might need an "undersized" (Plywood sized . similar names) bit.
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you may need to do this without a ball bearing guide. the 1/2" shaft of the slot cutter arbor is the bearing surface. a little paste wax on the rubbing part will help keep it from burning too badly.
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