Finally getting back to this after being away and/or busy for a few
1387 -- Very strange cast object. Possibly used in a metal casting
operation? Molten lead or whatever could be scooped (or melted) in the
ladle portion, and scum and slag captured in the hollow cylindrical
hinged portion by tilting the works slightly, then the purer metal
poured into the mold.
1388 -- Googling "Brains and Pictures" reveals that it's an austrian
firm specializing in camera handling machinery for television and motion
picture use. It would therefore seem that this is some sort of a
motorized camera positioning system.
1389 -- Clearly a multiple saw of some manner, seemingly used to saw
grooves in or possibly strips of a sheet good of some sort. From the
substantial size of the arbor, I'm guessing maybe its used for metal
(Aluminum?). The sizes of the strips or groove spacing obviously vary;
it's not clear, to say the least, what possible construction they may be
1390 -- Spring compressor, maybe for valve springs on old engines?
1391 -- Early form of GPS navigator device, giving directions to the
operator of a motor vehicle. Maybe used by drivers on a bus line.
"Macadam and pike" would refer to paved roads or toll (turnpike) roads,
presumably the smoothest, fastest, and best-maintained of the day.
1392 -- Clueless, but with a nagging suspicion I should recognize this.
The cutout appears to be a bottle cap lifter shape, while the toothed
bit looks like it should engage a bit of belting, two functions that
generally don't go together.
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
1387. For casting a lead or Babbit hammer head on a metal handle.
1388. Aerial Camera Dolly
1389. Gang Saw for slitting sheet materials into strips
1390. Specialised C-clamp Brake or spring compressor?
1391. Trip directions on roads from Cinci to Dayton, probably for
bus drivers or truckers. Directions could be used over and over.
probably handed to the driver at the terminal or station when they are
assigned the trip, second half of the roll gets the next driver back.
1392. Combination bottle opener and cork puller
This looks very similar to a saw I saw once that was used to cut the slits
for the frets in the neck of a guitar.
What is not clear though is if there is enough room at the ends to allow the
two ends of the neck to clear the pillow blocks. Also, how does the neck
slide under the saw?
I suppose that this devise could be mounted on top and the stock slid
The neck is not involved at all in this one. The fretbord is a
separate piece of wood (ebony or some other hardwood) which is slitted
for the frets, and cut to length by the larger diameter blades at one
end, and two blades from the other end.
Proably so -- or under a board with slots cut for each blade and
the board slid across the top of it.
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That I have not seen. The one I saw cut the slots into a full size neck.
But what you are saying does make perfect sense.
How does this 1/4" material move over or under the blades? I keep thinking
about making sure that the hand does not get near these blades.
The spacing makes sense, except that the cut off blade inside the two
last frets seems wrong...maybe it was put together in different ways for
cutting fretboards for different guitars? I would guess it mounts below
a table and fretboards are clamped into a sled that passes over it. The
end blades cut to length, and the shallow blades cut for the fret wire
Since the cut is so wide, something must push it through evenly or it
will bind and destroy the work.
The fingerboard would have to be mounted on a sled of some kind, to keep it
true and prevent binding.
I have a special saw blade that I mount on my table saw for this process -
it cuts a .023" slot. I attach the fingerboard with double-sided tape to a
template that has a notch for each fret position. I have a miter gauge with
a pin that goes in those notches. I have several templates for different
Out of curosity is it practicle to make fretboards? I ask because Stew-
mac seems to sell them cheaper then I'd think you could make your own?
Unless it were a special length like the long neck banjos.
It certainly is for me (practical to make fretboards). I usually buy
fingerboard blanks from various sources or make them up by resawing thicker
lumber stock. And some of my instruments have scale lengths you can't get
from StewMac. Particularly 35" bass. I can get fretboards in a wider
selection of woods from Luthier's Mercantile (www.lmii.com) but their radius
and slotting services are expensive ($18 per fingerboard). So I do buy
blanks from them, but I radius and slot them myself to save money. Thus I
have two motivations: 1) it saves me money to make my own, and 2) it gives
me flexibility in the types of wood, scale lengths, etc.
Sometimes I buy exotic lumber from local sources or from Ebay. Wood already
cut to fingerboard size and thickness is quite expensive compared to the
per-board-foot cost of similar lumber in standard sizes. And it's nice not
to be limited to what certain vendors like StewMac and LMII offer.
At one time I worked as a gunsmith and found that some jobs wern't
financially viable - they took too much time and you just couldn't bill
a large amount for the job. I had assumed that, other then unusual
lengths, fretboards would fall in the same catagory - too many manhours
for what you could charge to make one.
Of course! A mandolin. <smacks head> That is why it is so short. I just
got guitar in my mind and just did not think of anything else.
I should of got it because I have seen a similar setup for a dulcimer.
Usually when building a guitar/banjo/etc. the neck is cut to shape and
then a groove is cut down the top of the neck to hold a steel truss rod
that strengthens the neck. The finger board, or fret board, slotted for
frets is then glued over the installed truss rod.
The slotting operation is done before the fingerboard is glued to the neck
of the guitar. The two blades that are slightly larger diameter actually
trim the fingerboard to length, while the rest cut the fret slots.
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