Now that the heating season is upon us here in the NE I have to find
an odorless, non-toxic finish I can use indoors for some jewelry boxes
I'm building for Christmas gifts. I've tried Minwax Polycrylic, but
not entirely satisfied with it. Will someone please recommend another
I've read some in this newsgroup use Hydrocote finishes, but don't
know which one would apply, or, where to purchase them.
I'm using red oak for some boxes and cherry/walnut on others.
Thanks. Paul P
Some of the guys here recommend shellac for indoor safe use. Probably
wouldn't be a bad choice for boxes that would not be roughly used.
What didn't you like about Minwax Polycrylic? I've used it on indoor
furniture and floor cloths and liked it. But I like a matte or less a than
satin finish on a lot of things.
You should use their Hydrocote Resistane for your project. Also you should
consider the Amber Additive to tint the finish with. The solvent used IIRC
is the same type of solvent used floor cleaners you buy at the store.
There is some out gassing when finished but when dry there is no noticeable
smell. Resistane can be brushed on, but spraying works best. Sand to 220
prior to application and 330 between coats. If necessary buff with a grey
scotchbrite pad after finishing using a bit of the premixed/ready to spray
"Murphy's Oil Soap" for lubricant.
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
I have used only water based finishes in my basement shop for the past 7
years. After trying many different stains and clear finishes, I find that I
get the best results with Behr Eurocolour water based wood stain, and
Carver-Tripp Safe-and Simple Super Poly. The Eurocolour stains are mostly
dye based, with a small amount of pigment, and thus do not hide the grain of
the wood. They dry quickly, can be blended to get the desired color, and I
have even thinned them with Behr water based pre-stain and wood conditioner
to lighten the color. The Carver-Trip Super Poly is self leveling, goes on
in nice thin coats, and dries quickly so it can be recoated in as little as
2 hours. I usually use 2 or 3 coats of gloss and a final coat of satin
finish to give a nice deep, non glossy finish.
Since water based finishes cause considerable grain rise, I sand the piece
with 220 grit, remove all dust from the surface, then apply the stain with a
brush or staining pad. After drying, I brush on the first coat of Super
Poly, let it dry overnight, and lightly hand sand with a fine grit foam
sanding pad to remove the grain rise. After cleaning off the dust I recoat
with Super Poly. Depending on the wood, I may or may not hand sand between
subsequent coats. I have used these products on red and white oak, maple,
cherry, and Honduran and African mahogany with good results. I hope this
Paul, you don't wet the piece with water, let this dry, sand the
raised grain before finishing? This is what I've done with WB aniline
dyes and WB Poly and there was very little sanding do to other than
scuff sanding afterward. I learned this from someone who takes his
pieces out in the yard and hoses them down.
Sanding off the raised grain before finishing supposedly keeps you
from sanding off some of the color (if you're staining or dyeing). I
wouldn't know, this is the only way I've done it and it worked for me.
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