It's been said before, and I would have followed up on those threads,
but google tells me I can't, so I figured I'd start another. A couple
plane blades, a full set of my best chisels and a couple of
construction chisels are now perfectly beveled and microbeveled. It's
so easy, so precise, and so quick to use. They've fixed the flaws with
the original and then some. I couldn't be happier.
That sounds really good. I have tardive disconesia in my forearms and hands
so anythiing that makes it easier to sharpen is a great help, I'll buy it, later
Thinking about an electric Makita copy too (flat wheel with water).
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
Once it's set up (it takes ~30 seconds the second time you do it) you
just roll it back and forth across the abrasive. And the roller unit
is big and stable. With your bad hands I'd strongly encourage you to
invest in one.
I have an MK.II also, and I generally agree - excellent idea for a
product. I've got some very sharp chisels as a result. However, I
have a question... When I adjust the roller from regular to microbevel
position, it seems to change the side-to-side angle of the blade. As a
result, I always end up with long thin triangles for microbevels,
unless I give the chisel a little tap to compensate. I'm pretty sure
it's not that my blades are out of square (it's happened with multiple
blades, and I've measured with a square). I'm also pretty sure it's
not my stone, as it happens whether I sharpen on a water stone or
600-grit wet/dry on top of glass.
I've been meaning to contact Lee Valley about this, and I have no doubt
they'll take care of me - either giving me advice on how to correct the
problem, fixing the jig, replacing it, or refunding my money. Before I
do that, though, I was wondering if anyone else has noticed the same
Another interesting side note - last time I contacted Lee Valley with a
question on this MK.II honing guide, I was wondering whether this could
be used for skew chisels. Answer: not easily. A couple months later,
I get a catalog with a brand new product - a skew chisel registration
jig for the MK.II! That's a great company - not only does customer
service communicate with other departments, but they actually do
something in response to customer feedback!
Keep it up, Robin!
I agree. I don't really notice that I'm using much pressure except
when putting on a new bevel or hogging out a chip, but a powered wheel
would pretty much eliminate it. AAvK - if you are looking at powered
wheels, don't overlook the Veritas offering. I believe it was recently
highest rated in Fine WWing.
I think Lee Valley is a great company, too, but I'm not so enthusiastic
about its riteration of the honing jig. Like the first one, narrow
chisels do not stay put. Maybe it's just me, but I doubt it, although I
would feel better if I had a chorus. Do I?
Robin's company makes a fine honing guide. They use a toggle clamp
blade securing setup as on our "Sharpening Sled" honing guide. We also
had customers bring up the issue of small chisels moving while honing.
We added an abrasive surface to the blade contact area of our guide and
have not had one issue since.
Robin, I think the same solution for your guide would achieve the same
Narrow chisels and Japanese dovetail chisels can still be problematic.
So perhaps a chorus of one.
There are a couple ways to mitigate the issue. One is to carefully
tighten both sides down evenly and squarely. Tis the last part of
that which affects narrow chisels the most. If the clamp bar sits
askew even a little, the pressure exerted on the chisel from a side
angle can/will cause the chisel to pivot if not downright move.
Aside from the above, another way to help is to glue a piece of fine
sandpaper to the lower roller assembly, across the whole length,
where the chisel back makes contact. I have used 180 grit. This works
On another trial, I glued a *very* thin piece of neoprene in the same
location and I perhaps liked it better. One needs to select a very
thin piece, thinner than the former jig had, which was too thick and
squishy. That thicker piece only served to allow a certain amount of
spring/twist which allowed a narrow chisel to twist anyway.
The above methods have helped many people, but not all. I have then
suggested for narrow chisels to purchase an inexpensive side-clamp
jig. They have their own bugaboos, but do work for the narrow chisels
if they are not too short.
Take care, Mike
Veritas evenly before giving up. The idea of using sandpaper did occur
to me but I never acted on it. I was told at the last woodworking show
in Portland,Or, that Lie Neilsen was developing a jig too. It will be
interesting to see what they come up with. Larry
I've been happily using the older Veritas "sharpening system" for a long
time, perhaps more than 15 years. The "new and improved" Mk.II seems way
too complicated and prone to problems like this. I guess I just like
this could be used for skew chisels. Answer: not easily. A couple
LV will also be releasing shortly a new lower assembly with a cambered
roller. Makes plane blades with a camber much easier to hone.
And I second the "Keep it up, Rob" sentiment. Like plow
planes, the high carbon replacement blades, and ...
Take care, Mike
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 00:02:00 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (MikeW) wrote:
owners of the MK.I jig when they complained about the jig? Well, they
built a better jig and if I want to invest a 2nd time in a sharpening
jig I can have the new and improved version, the version that actually
works. They left their MK.I customers in the lurch. Sorry, no MK.II
extra one for your toolbox." This, with a smile, at the ww show when I
bought the new one.
I don't have the most gifted pair of hands, so it's hard for me to come
down with both feet on this issue. Still, I'm really puzzled why many
others don't have the problem of narrow chisels wandering.
I like the improvements made but they are trivial--imho--to making the
chisel behave while being sharpened. Why did I go for the second one?
Because of my good opinion of Lee Valley, which, in this case I'm truly
sorry to say, was misplaced.
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