Planning on getting a lumber rack up soon in my basement, so I've been
reading wreck threads on google about different types.
Seems that for basic, cheap, yet effective, 1/2 in. pipe set into holes in
2x4 uprights is the way to go.
For the size I'd need, roughly $45 in materials needed vs $106 for the
next-cheapest solution I've found.
But I'm wondering... instead of attaching 2x4 uprights to the existing wall
studs with lag screws, could a guy just drill the holes directly in the
studs? And how much weight could I expect that to support - with no damage
to the wall, that is.
It just feels wrong. Too much bending moment on the wall studs that way?
I'm not sure.
But if someone else has done this and his lumber has been up on that rack
for years with no problems, I might try it. Otherwise I'll play it safe and
add separate 2x4s for uprights.
I did a sort of hybrid solution. I have a wall that's furred out from a
foundation wall with 2x2' (making it a non-bearing wall) and then drywalled.
I ripped 2x4's into 2x2's and screwed them onto the studs sandwiching the
drywall. I then drilled holes through the "new" 2x2's, through the drywall
and into the "old" 2x2's for 3/4" black pipe. This way, the new 2x2's take
the vertical component of the load and the old 2x2's actually get an upwards
component of the load. I also ran a 2x4 across the tops of all the new 2x2's
and screwed it into existing floor joists. This way, the rotational effort
on the new 2x2's isn't handled by the screws alone, it's mechanically
handled by the top brace as well. I've got about 500 bd ft up there now and
so far, so good.
I would not drill into the existing 2x4 wall and use it as my only means of
support for a wood rack.
"Keith Carlson" < email@example.com> wrote in message
I would edit what Rob said, as my own comment, to read:
"I would not drill into the existing 2x4 wall" except for perhaps lateral
1. Houses have structural components, which are sometimes well planned,
improperly executed, and generally subject to various inspections, in times
future, with financial consequences. If someone second guesses you, and
they likely will, they will want into your wallet, or that of your estate.
2. The second is less skeptical. You WILL change your mind about where
things go in your workspace, and how your work flows. You should build in
as many options, and as much flexibility, as you can, now, when things are
I will state that the ease of getting 8/4 oak planks down from 7' up,
diminishes, somewhat, as we get older. The same can be said for the
storage in the crawl space idea. DAMHIKT.
I did a different one. I lag-bolted 2x4s laid flat through the
wallboard into the existing studs and then screwed shelf supports to
that. I also attached some tapered 2x2s from the floor up 4 feet to
lean sheet goods against.
I sank my shelf supports directly into the existing studs, but it is
carrying a light load, and it is cantilevered, so the load is also not
pulling directly out from the studs. Still makes me nervous...
I think you will be removing too much "meat" from the primary load bearing
componets of your wall. I would not do this. The price of failure is high.
I hung my wood racks from the ceiling joists. I sandwiched the joists with
1x4's that hung next to the wall. The lumber carrying arms were made of
2x4's mounted between the 1x4's.
Here is what I did in my basement shop for wood storage. It has
advantages and disadvantages so take it for what it's worth. It is
certainly a cheap alternative - and virtually no weight restrictions!
(My steps are about centered on the basement.)
Our basement has 13 steps, under which the space is virtually unusable
(in my mind), so I thought that it is a perfect place for wood storage.
I dropped a few vertical 2x4's about every 4 steps, then ran some
horizontals about every 2 feet - connected with some scrap plywood
spaced every foot or so. The stored wood is viewed "on end" from my
shop area. You can label the edges in an ideal world.
I use the top "shelf" for shorts, and work my way down to the 8 or 10
footers at the bottom. I put the PT stuff on the floor.
Just a thought.
That's an excellent thought. In fact, the area under the steps in my
basement faces toward the shop area, and would even be in line with the CMS.
I hadn't even thought of it because a couple of years ago I told my son we
could build a "fort" under there - if he helped. Hasn't happened, and he's
outgrowing play forts so I may lay claim to that available space.
Hi again Keith,
Glad you thought the idea was worth considering.
To store sheet goods, I used the "less traveled" side of the steps and
built a platform about 16 x 96 and about 6 inches above the floor. When
I need a sheet, I slide it off toward the shop area. I wish that I
would have used the storage system that I read about here a few weeks
ago. It involved using a pair of 2x6's connected with some 1 inch
dowels onto which some PVC tubing was slipped before assembly. This
would make removing sheets a lot easier. I just used plywood.
I have poured concrete walls in my basement shop. I ran a row of 2x4 studs
along one wall, anchoring the footer into the floor with concrete nails
(damn, that Remington 22 caliber nail shooter is one hell of cool tool!) and
the header into the ceiling joists (with nails). I then lag bolted some
industrial shelving vertical metal supports onto the 2x4's. The shelf
brackets themselves are 16 inches out from the wall and lock onto the
vertical metal supports like a lot of your typical shelving on which you put
your own 1x shelving. But it's industrial quality rated at 300 pounds per
shelf bracket. I have 4 of these vertical supports installed, with 4 shelf
brackets on each - theoretically that's 4800 pounds. I currently have it
loaded up with 400 board feet of mahogany and 150 board feet of oak. Six
months so far, and it hasn't fallen down.
I used 1 x 2s screwed into studs, drilled holes for 1/2 PVC pipe 10" apart
and cut 15" sections of PVC to fit in holes. (Not much room in garage)
Holes were angled slightly 5 degrees and it works well for smaller loads.
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