Titebond III corrosivity to ferrous metals?

Last week the only uncluttered table top in my shop was the top of my Powermatic 66 table saw. I glued up some panels and left some Titebond III squeeze out on the saw's polished cast iron table top. When I took a chisel to scrape off the hardened glue today the top appeared to be pitted under the glue.
Has anyone experienced corrosion of ferrous metals when using this glue?
Second question:
When I cut out the pattern on one of the panels on my band saw, what should appear but a biscuit. As this is a rather sizeable panel of walnut, I hate to throw it away. Do you think that I could Dremmel out the top surface of the biscuit and replace it with glue filled with walnut sawdust? Any better ideas?
Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX
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Paul Gilbert wrote: ...

> Has anyone experienced corrosion of ferrous metals when using this glue?
It's a water-based glue--I don't think it's particularly more corrosive than an equivalent-sized drop of water would have been.

I'd probably be more inclined to cut a section off and reglue up a panel than that, but depending on how visible the spot is a neat plug/spline might be nearly invisible, too.
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As another author noted, the glue is water-based and water is corrosive.

I think you would get a better match of the texture if you use wood flour--sanding dust rather than sawdust. I also think that if you mix your filler with whatever wood finish you intend to use as your first coat (unless it is oil which won't harden adequately) you'll get a better match in color. Shellac is great for that sort of thing but you could probably use varnish or lacquer too.
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FF



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Paul Gilbert wrote:

As people said, it is water based. However, that water is acidic - fairly strong - and it *will* eat steel. Removes rust too :)
The above applies to Titebond #2. Since #3 ate your steel I'm assuming it is the same.
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I just got a reply back form Franklin (real quick I must say). It seems that the product is catalyzed with a compound which is acidic. IE - look out bare metal. However, that should make it bond to steel quite nicely.
I am up against a tight deadline here and not thinking well. You know, measure twice and only cut once. The tip to rip off the screw up and reglue is the right answer.
Many thanks. Paul Gilbert

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WHy izzit that this OP makes me want to scream at him?
"Well shiat, I put Diesel in my BiTurbo?" "What On Earth should I do?" (Besides feeling that I should NOT own a PM66?)
You glue on top of your PM66 and come in here to tell us about it???
***serious finger wagging******
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Why izzit that this OP makes me want to scream at him?
"Well shiat, I put Diesel in my BiTurbo?" "What On Earth should I do?" (Besides feeling that I should NOT own a PM66?)
You glue on top of your PM66 and come in here to tell us about it???
***serious finger wagging******
Isn't there some type of appropriate punishment meted out by the Cabal for this sort of thing?
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I wouldn't know. The Cabal was put out of its misery before I arrived on the scene.
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Paul Gilbert wrote:

... I hadn't looked at the MSDS or other data -- hadn't particularly noticed the problem and I've done the same previously as well -- of course, the top of my 66 is pretty well used by now so it isn't that shiny any more.
Glad the re-rip thought helped...sorry for the necessity.
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