Thick non-epoxy finish for table


I am building a small side table (30" semi-circle) with a surface covered with glued-on preserved leaves (The leaves are from a grape vine and I preserved them last year in glycerine solution).
I want to cover the leaves with a thick and hopefully waterproof finish. The finish should be thick enough to mostly smooth out the surface, maybe 1/16" or so. I'm also thinking that I may want to the finish to have an amber color.
I know I could do a pourable epoxy finish, but I think it will be much thicker than I'd like, and it's not particularly the look I'm trying to get.
Various options I'm considering:
- McCloskey's Gymseal: It's mainly for floors, but it's also recommended for bar tops. They claim it very hard, but also a little flexible, which may be helpful for coating the leaves.
- Behlen's Rockhard
- Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (which is for both interior and exterior surfaces)
- Regular oil-based polyurethane
In addition, the fewer coats required, the better, and a finish that's easy to apply with room for error (unlike epoxy) would be nice.
If it ends up that epoxy is the really the best way, I may coat the table with amber shellac before applying the epoxy. Maybe instead of pourable epoxy, something like the brushable Progressive Epoxy's Basic No Blush 2 would work (see at http://epoxyproducts.com ).
Clearly, the best thing to do would be some tests on some scrap wood with some of the extra leaves I have. If I mess it up the main table I won't have enough leaves to try again and would have to have to do the table without leaves.
Any sugggestions or advice would be much appreciated
Thanks.
DD
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System Three "Mirror Coat". It is a 2-part epoxy but the only finish I know of that can be built to 1/16" without problems (cracking, crazing, etc.). This is the stuff they use to cover bar tops and such. You pour it on and it cures crystal clear and was abolutely made for your application.

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I've had good luck with Behlen's Rockhard for a tabletop - no leaves, though (except the one that makes the table bigger). I found it was easy to brush on, the brush marks "flowed" out before it hardened, and it built up to a thick coat fairly quickly. Just be sure you sand lightly between coats. Good luck, Andy
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

KraftKote
http://www.klockit.com/products/dept-94__sku-GGGHH.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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On 29 May 2006 10:01:44 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Don't know exactly how thick you can build it up, but you could try a two-part cabinet maker's finish. Build it up with acyrilic sealer, sand it, then topcoat with a conversion finish. It'll be tough and waterproof- and makes for a really nice surface. The stuff we use at work comes from Sherwin Williams- I'm sure they'd be able to help you if you popped into one and asked.
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