I'm pretty much in heaven playing with this thing, but
I'm getting a fair amount of tear out. I think it might
be the cheap practice pine I'm using, but I wonder if
anyone has any tips about this issue.
Speaking from a D4R perspective, as I haven't seen the Super Jig...
1.) Make sure the work is up tight against the "spacer" board.
2.) Mind the bit rotation direction on initial entry from the front. A
light climb cut will leave an clean cut.
3.) Slow down at the edges.
There's a special section in the manual that has diagrams showing proper
motion. I always need to refresh myself when I set up the D4R.
Other than that, it's the pine. <G>
If the manual is only half as good as what mine is for the D4, reread the
manual where it tells you how to make the cut. Pay particular attention to
the direction of cut at the entry and exit of the board.
Be sure to use a backer board on the back side and climb cut at the initial
entry/front side of the cut.
Think about the direction that the bit is spinning and where the tear out is
likely to be.
On the entry front side of the cut you should work the router right to left
in shallow even passes until the bit has clearly entered the board all the
way across that particular cut.
On the exit side of the cut and again with a backer board on the back side
of the cut let the bit exit on your left side and work towards your right
side after exiting the back side. Once the backer board has been cut the
full width this will be easier to do.
Put a sacrificial backer board into the top clamp, in place of your spacer
board, and position it up against the back side of your part. This will
significantly reduce tear-out from the back side. You can leave the same
sacrificial board in place while doing all of your duplicate parts. The best
way to reduce tear-out from the face side is to use the climb cutting
technique, but another way to reduce front side tear-out is to clamp a thin
(1/4 or 1/2" ) piece of sacrificial material across the face side of your
work using small C clamps to hold it in place (Be sure to position the C
clamps so that they do not interfere with the router bit movement). In the
end, there's always a small risk of some tear-out no matter what you do.
Climb cutting and slow movement of the router while entering or exiting the
cut is usually all that is necessary, but this takes a bit of practice to
get the best results. Using pine to practice is a good idea, but you should
try using some oak, poplar, or other hardwood scraps for practice too, as
each wood will behave a bit differently. I frequently use a sacrificial
backer board, but I've only had to resort to using a sacrificial front board
one time so far, while cutting a particularly difficult piece containing
significant swirling grain.
In addition to what everyone else has said, I put a straight cutter in the
router and hog out most of the waste wood with a free-hand cut. Or mark the
piece with a pencil and free-hand out the waste on the bandsaw before I
clamp it up. Then when I do the final passes the router has a much easier
time of it.
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