Table Saw Help

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My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot. Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen. Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else you can offer.
There is this much older Grizzly TS http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the asking price.
Also this Bosch portable model http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input, it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort Ϊte&query=table%20saw
Thank you
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On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:

Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
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On 6/18/2016 10:23 AM, Bob Villa wrote:

than the lowest I found elsewhere. I wish I could replace just the bearing but it appears to be pressed on, No screw/bolt to remove it.
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On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 10:18:20 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v
―fVLYReE8o
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On 6/18/2016 12:19 PM, Bob Villa wrote:

Here is the housing with internal contacts and brushes. https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27472685740/in/dateposted-public/
Here are the windings with the shaft and bearing at top. https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750844445/in/dateposted-public/
Here are the windings with bottom bearing and where it makes contact with brushes. That bottom bearing is the shot one. https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750846725/in/dateposted-public/
A closer view of it https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750848235/in/dateposted-public/
And directly from bottom (or top) of that bearing. https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27138489684/in/dateposted-public/
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Meanie wrote:

Take it to a small motor repair shop. Odds are they will be able to replace the bearing quite reasonably.
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On 06/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:

Were you satisfied with the saw or needing/wanting to upgrade anyway?
Is the shaft itself gone/worn; if not why not just replace bearings if question above is "no" or "not really" (to the second half, anyway :) ).
What's the motor rating/form just out of curiosity; seems a little steep albeit not absurd...
--


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On 6/18/2016 10:52 AM, dpb wrote:

Very satisfied. It was a good little saw and handled many big task for at least 10 years. The reason I never went bigger was due to lack of space.

The windings, shaft, bushings, etc all look good. That bottom bearing is shot and per my reply above, appears to be pressed on otherwise I would find another bearing to replace.

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On 06/18/2016 10:21 AM, Meanie wrote: ...

What's the problem? A small puller and away's ya' goes...looks like it's been _way_ hot, just as a comment...
...
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On 6/18/2016 11:21 AM, Meanie wrote: :) ).

Yellow Pages: Motor rebuilding Cost of bearing + $20
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"Meanie" wrote in message

I had one of those Dewalt 744's quite a while ago and used it for at least ten years. I got it because it was portable enough to put into a dock cart and take down to the dock where I was working on my boat. It was a good little saw. The rack-and-pinion mechanism on the fence keeps the fence dead parallel to the blade, with a useful range of 24 inches. There's stowage for spare blades on the right-hand side under the table.
When I no longer needed it on the dock I sold it to a cabinetmaker friend and he still uses it once in a while when he needs a saw at a job site. One day the motor failed to start, but I was able to get it serviced under warranty and never had trouble with it again. $180 sounds a little high to me, though, but if it's not too old and has been well-cared-for it might be an OK price.
Tom
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On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:

Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top again. These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet saws are. Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one becomes unusable.
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I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and if you don't require portability, I think you would be much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top saw.
When you say "not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out", is that specific to the Ridgid, or a generic concern about contractor style saws? If the latter, I don't think you need worry - I've used that style saw for ages, and don't recall ever having an issue with the motor or belt.
John
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On 6/18/2016 3:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:

I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
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Meanie wrote:

Not sure why you're worrying about that. I've never had an issue with my motor hanging off the back. You have to remember, anything you cut is going to travel further than what the motor sticks out. There are no issues with the belts on this design as long as your belt is in good condition and your pulleys are as well. Mine is mounted on wheels and that poses absolutely no issues at all.
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On 6/18/2016 4:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

Thanks for the info. What's your opinion on the Rigid brand?
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Meanie wrote:

It's been several years since I've looked at any Rigid saw so I really can't say for today's products. Back around 10 years or maybe a little less ago, they were a really good buy. Well built, lots of great features, great warranty, etc. I'd really have to look at what they are offering today before I could comment though. Hopefully others here have more updated knowledge than I do. Just be careful of the guys who start to raise concerns based upon nothing that they really know. A ton of that can happen here...
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If you find an Ridgid 3650 or 3660 (same saw, different package) in good condition, it's well worth purchasing. It's been a fantastic saw, except I'm not too fond of the way the guard attaches.
Puckdropper
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On 6/18/2016 7:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

What do you not like about the way that the guard attaches? I have the 3650 and I think that it is very simple to remove or replace the guard. All you have to do is twist one thumb screw.
Now, if you had said that you did not like the original adjustment of the guard, then I would have agreed with you. I spent about an hour before I found the right technique and it involved the use of a hammer to get the splitter to be vertical.
However, now that I have the guard set correctly, it goes off and on easily and is positioned correctly without anything more than tightening the thumb screw.
Dan
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On 6/18/2016 7:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

I don't like where it attaches. It's so far back from the blade that any misalignment is magnified when you use it. I wasn't too fond of the thumbscrew design, as it didn't seem to lock the guard back in place at exactly the same place so I'd have to adjust and check and adjust and check and....
Hm... now that I think about it... I adjusted the fence long after I had removed the guard pretty much permanently. Some of the issues I had with alignment may have been caused or magnified by the fence being slightly angled. (It's well worth checking your fence and blade to make sure they're exactly parallel to the miter slot!)
Puckdropper
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