Straightening a Table Saw Blade

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My blade is a 10" Amana 80-tooth, thin kerf, trim blade.
For reasons I won't embarrassingly reveal, the blade now has about 25 thou runout about 1" inside the OD.
My questions:
1) Have you ever had a blade straightened?
2) Can this blade be straightened to acceptable specs?
3) If so, is it worth it? A new replacement Amana blade is around $125.
I know there are cheaper, alternative blade choices, but I'd like to stick with the setup I now have.
Thanks, Joel
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On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 04:08:25 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com"

Send it to Ridge Carbide or Forrest for sharpening. I think they straighten them too.
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DON'T send it to Forrest! I had a similar issue with one of their blades. They had absolutely no clue how to fix the runout -- after sending it back *twice* it was still no better.
I eventually sent the same blade to Ridge Carbide and they fixed it on the first shot. I'm done with Forrest.
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On 11/14/2015 7:32 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

Ditto. Not the same since the old man died.
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I have not had a problem yet. Where are you sending your blades now?
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On 11/18/2015 5:30 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

Understood, but is that the one Swingman is using too?
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wrote:

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On 11/19/2015 7:18 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

Np!
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On 11/18/2015 7:45 AM, Leon wrote:

Sorry, I did not see this.
No, the last one I sent to Forrest about a year and a half ago didn't really cut any better when I got it back, than it did before I sent it.
Disappointing...
The new Forrest I purchased, about 18 months ago, will probably be my last. Have two now that need sharpening and was going to look locally, or might try Ridge Carbide.
Freud dial-a-width dado stack and the Freud glue-line rip have stood me well, so I will probably buy a Freud combo next time.
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On 11/20/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:

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On 11/20/2015 10:25 AM, Swingman wrote:

I sent a couple of Freud and a DeWalt blade to Ridge Carbide and they came back cutting better than new. I also use their dado and combo blade with excellent results.
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On 11/20/2015 7:08 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

You, and Doug Miller have me convinced. Thanks ... provided me with the "energy of activation". ;)
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On 11/20/2015 7:08 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Think that I've mentioned before my "success" with the Freud 10" rip blade.
Had to rip down some 16' 2x10's and I swear the cut edge looked and felt as if it had been run through a jointer. Smooth as a baby's butt!
The strangest part was that I did it with my ca 1970 Craftsman RAS. Still have the blade and it cuts just as nice in my Jet cabinet saw. One of these days I'll need to get it sharpened but for the time being it's sweet!
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should to a better job but no one has ever described better results than I get with mi WWII. The only your I don't get great rip results is then the board is not perfectly straight and or the board warps during the cut. I don't think a rip blade will improve on that. Am I wrong?
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On 11/21/2015 7:55 AM, Leon wrote:

No, I don't think that you are. Technology and design are constantly changing.
I don't think that the WWII was around in 1984(?) when I bought that Freud blade. I now have the WWII and it rips fine, but not, I don't think, as well as the Freud.
Bottom line, I think, is to buy a top quality blade designed for the job. The WWII is a well designed combo blade and therein lies its success.
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On 11/21/2015 7:55 AM, Leon wrote:

Using both types of blades, I do see/feel a difference, otherwise (hating "change" as I do (even changing blades)) I wouldn't bother. :)
Seriously, where I do see/feel the difference is when cutting thick 8/4+ hardwood stock for table legs and chair parts, and have done a ton of both.
Also find I have less burn when cutting thicker hard maple, which I use a lot of, with my Freud Glue-Line rip.
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On 11/21/2015 9:00 AM, Swingman wrote:

Got it. And that explains why I don't see the difference. I do have a Systematic rip blade but hardly ever use it, it has yet to be put on the SS. I don't often cut much thicker than 1".
I wonder if Rockler or Woodcraft have a sharpening service that they recommend. IIRC both offer this service through a third party. And here is hoping that my WWII came back good, I got it back 3~4 months ago and will probably not pull the protective coating off until I send the current one in to be sharpened.
Years ago, going back to about 1988 I used MVP sharpeners. They were on Post Oak in Meyerland and probably 10~12 years ago moved to across Sam Houston Tollway from Hardwood Products. I was never impressed with their service after they moved, the son took over the fathers business. I'm not sure they are even still in business. The last time I used them the blade came back, I did a test cut, and immediately sent it to Forrest.
I pretty much don't try to diagnose when I send to Forrest. I simply ask to have the blade brought back to factory specs, call me if the repair will be more than $50. Hopefully my last sharpening by them will be OK.
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On 11/21/15 7:55 AM, Leon wrote:

I don't have a WWII so I can't say. I think the larger gullets help you cut more quickly and will less binding and that's the appeal of a rip blade. Freud took it a step further and included teeth with a grind that *also* produces a very smooth cut.
The WWII is supposed to be the best blade on earth, so perhaps you won't see a vast improvement. But for those who were using inferior blades, the difference is just that: vast.
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On 11/21/2015 11:04 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I think you are right and this may absolutely make a big difference on thicker boards and or underpowered saws. If I fear burning I raise the blade so that there is more blade body than teeth in the kerf.

typically get just shy of a burnished edge when ripping 3/4" and thinner stock. The cross cuts are burnished when cutting hard woods like white oak.
My biggest question is "what am I missing" not using a rip blade. And as Swingman pointed out not much, when cutting 1" and thinner and or hard maple.
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