Spacer for Drawer Slider to Face Frame Mount

[Tom in PA]

I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet. Norm ally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders in about 1/

2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors don't open enou gh to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.

I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture of this but ca n't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may not be a Grass produc t.

Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.

Thanks in advance!

[Swingman]

Inset or overlay?

Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not solve your problem.

What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:

Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.

YMMV ...

[Swingman]

FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen refit:

By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200# heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client

+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle for me. Well worth the higher price.

[Tom in PA]

Thanks for the comments! FYI, the doors are 1/2" overlay. Can you tell me more about what you mean by "zero clearance hinge"? My pro blem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge o f the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into t he cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exactl y does it do?

[Tom in PA]

roblem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge of the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into the cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exac tly does it do?

Forget that question.... I did a little more research and it looks like you 're pointing me to the product I need. Thanks again!

[Tom in PA]

Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

[Swingman]

Just one caveat ... you need to verify that the cabinet side of the door hinge (attached to the FF) does not interfere with either the drawer slide, or the drawer.

Generally no less than the usual light/medium duty slide's 1/2" clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet FF stile on each side will give you enough clearance, but it still needs to be verified for the style and brand of door hinge you're using.

It's these very issue that need to be addressed/verified, and the availability of both drawer slides and door hinges insured, BEFORE you build drawers and pullouts.

[Tom in PA]

Again, thanks for the advice. I think I can handle this now!

[Swingman]

Photos, are it never happened. ;)