I'm currently working on this "large" entertainment
center project. I am not a pro - just retired and
an amateur woodworker who watches Norm and that
sort of thing.
Anyhow, I bought the Kreg 2000 (?) jig kit to assemble
some face frames for the project. So far, I have found that
the pocket screw system is pretty great - especially if you are
like me and have never used it before - speeds things up and
really gives nice tight joints.
I am at the point in my project where I need to attach the FF's.
Now, I have done this several (many) times in the past. Usually,
I glued/nailed or glued/biscuited to attach the FF's.
Since I got this new Kreg kit and the "Mini" which came with it,
I was considering attaching FF's with glue and a few PS's using
Anyone do this regularly? Seems like it would save a lot of
filling/staining nail holes (outside) while admittedly needing
some sanding to flush up the PS plugs (inside).
Most of the "boxes" are in place and do not allow clamping
from the back because of wall clearance etc.
There are many ways that will work. For many many years I simply glued and
finish nailed the face frame to the carcus. Now however I dado the face
frame onto the carcus and still use a few finish nails to attach. Nail
holes do have to be puttied but if you place a piece of masking tape at each
location that you intend to place a nail and shoot through the tape you end
up with a shield that prevents the putty from getting into the surrounding
wood grain. Apply the putty on top of the tape and after the putty dries
finish sand the entire face frame. The tape will sand off also.
I thought pocket screw systems were for this? If this isn't practical, I'd
biscuit them. I used to put a 3/4" x 3/4" nailer strip inside and fasten
thru it so no nail holes in Face and strong.
I must be missing something here. I'm also building an entertainment
center and I'm planning on attaching the face frame with nothing but
glue, just like I've done in the past.
Is the use of other fasteners caused by inability to clamp? Or is there
some other reason that glue alone isn't enough?
Hi lgb and all - thanks for the input.
I think that glue alone is fine if you can clamp, but this project is
"built in" - into a corner alcove , next to a brick fireplace. Because
of the design we wanted, I wanted to build the
boxes first, since some of the
cabinets actually sit on top of the brick wood storage area. It's
a little hard to describe, but basically it's a corner (65 x 65) with
a 48 x 48 cabinet area that is up on the bricks to the right. It's
also an 11.5 ft tray ceiling, and the top of the EC rises at 45 deg
but at a 33 deg angle to the corner. It's an interesting project I have
to say. I've never had my RAS at such weird compound angles before!
The actual EC has component storage and drawers under the TV area
which I wanted 60w x 42H x 24D (future widescreen). On either side of
the TV is speaker and DVD storage slots. Above all that are book cases
that follow the slope of the ceiling and tie in with the cabinets to
the right, over the fireplace.
Anyhow, some of the lower cabinets, I can clmp the FF to, but the uppers
over the FP are already lagged into the brick and have the backs on.
Also, the outside of the carcass of those cabinets is not accessible.
This is why I was thinking of using pocket screws - at least in that
area. Also, since I just got this new Kreg jig, I was toying with using
the PS all over and avoid the clamps altogether.
Sometimes, say when hanging Euro cabinet hinges on the face frames, a
little extra fastening goes a long way towards peace of mind. Particularly
in a household with children regularly in attendance.
not known for 'delicate' furniture engineering...
I use a Kreg for that purpose often. However, I drill through the
outside of the carcass therefore no filling / sanding is needed. What do
you mean the "boxes" are in place? Normally I attach the face frames,
push into position, level and screw the "boxes" together through the
Yes, I do, when the pocket hole are in a hidden location or if I simply
don't care because it's easy and it's for a shop cabinet.
By hidden, I mean: underside of the carcase base, where the drawers go in a
typical "lower" kitchen cabinet or the outside of a side that will be butted
up against a wall.
I have done that before (used pocket screws to attach face frames)
However, I only do it when I'm making a unit full of drawers (so they
won't be seen) or if it's a built in butted permanently against the
wall (not seen).
filled in nail holes look better than Kreg plugs, in my opinion of
course. As a test, I'd take a piece of scrap plywood, Kreg hole it,
glue a plug and finish the scrap. take a look at it and ask yourself if
it's good enough for you.
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