spacer adjust normal for bandsaw blade changes?


I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt., and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one, and way overkill but I didn't find a narrower one with 3tpi or less).
For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
I decided to leave the setscrew out of the spacer altogether, as I have to adjust it with each blade change, and it tightens down on the threads of the tension adjust rod... which can't be good if you're doing a lot of blade changes.
er
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Yep. Small blades would snap with the tension you'll need on that 3/4.
Oh yes, http://www.timberwolf1.com/ has a 1/2" 3TPI for us turners who cut green wood.
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George wrote:

Hmm. Guess I wasn't clear. I've expanded on the tension spacer thingy in a later response.
er
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Find a local saw shop and you can get any tooth/size/set that you want.. The shop I use also has a pretty good stock of "ready to pick up" blades and my preference right now is a 3/8 6 tpi but they have it in 3 and 4 tpi, too..
As to blade tension.. what George said... the thinner the rubber band, the less you can safely stretch it... or in bandsaw terms, the thicker the band, the ore force it takes to stretch it..
I'm not sure what a tension spacer is, though?
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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Enoch Root wrote:

Just toss it onto the floor.
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Got a better suggestion for a blade 150" long? I toss mine out 5 to 7 times before they finally spring open.
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Leon wrote:

It's not any better with a 105" one. That thing won't toss, and if you're holding it will come back at you with a pointy sharp vengeance.
Like holding a mad cat.
er
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opps.. I meant to include in my 1st post that being a devout coward, I keep a pair of work gloves under the band saw, for handling blades..
I can usually give it a twist and open it ok, but not without gloves.. I recommend the ones that have a bit of cuff/wrist protection.. Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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Leon wrote:

Eh, I've responded to your new thread with something you might try.
er
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Leon wrote:

Throw it harder? :)
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You can buy almost any blade configuaration you can imagine.
http://www.olsonsaw.com/downloads.html
An excellent blade is a 1/2" 3tpi for "most" stuff.
Yes... bandsaws require a great deal of "twitching" to make them do the job. Every blade change will require another complete setup of most adjustments.
I wouldn't leave any parts out.
Have you done any reading on bandsaws ???
What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
Most blades come with instructions on proper installation.
A good bit of tensioning is tighten,observe,repeat process.
Look for the "flutter method" of getting the correct temsion.
Enoch Root wrote:

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Pat Barber wrote:

That's the one I would have chosen for resaw, but a timberwolf in that size wasn't offered by Grizzly. And I had to have one now...
Subtleties of unfolding a 3/4" x 105" angry kitty aside, the blade works well on the saw, and paring off the saw marks is a matter of a few passes with the plane.

I will. I don't want to crush the threads on the adjustment bar, and it doesn't move without out it for the length of time I usually have the blade on and under tension (working). It's difficult to move intentionally, and there's little enough vibration in the BS to assure it won't be moving in operation.

Yes. A lot. And had a more finicky one for a short time, to play with.

That thing which threads onto the tension rod between the block the quick release rides on when fully tensioned (at the top), and the carriage the wheel is fixed to (which in turn rides on ways in the frame). It doesn't directly contribute to the tension, but pushes down (when properly set) on the wheel carriage when the tension is released to bring the wheel down far enough to remove the blade. Think of it as a tension "preload" that keeps the spring compressed while the tension is released... but it's serving to reduce the length of travel required to get zero tension on the blade.

Yes. The instructions don't talk about what you have to deal with when you buy too much blade for the bandsaw you've chosen. :)
I don't have a problem installing the blades, or adjusting the tension for the blade. It's just surprising to me that setscrew would be used and be positioned to crush the threads if the spacer needs to be adjusted with every blade change. There're also no flats to set a wrench on it--everything about its design tells me "set and forget" so I had to ask.

Without a way to measure the tension accurately (forget about that little indicator on the spring... I think it may have had some marginal basis in reality before the riser block was fitted but...) I expected to have to do that. I'm not asking how to tension the blade, though.
er
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wrote:

Sounds like part of the quick release, and there are different styles of them. On mine the lever lowers the upper wheel a LOT if I let it go all the way back, and regardless of what size blade is on there it's flopping around loose without me doing anything for different blades. Maybe if you mention the model of the saw you have someone can chime in with better info.
-Leuf
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Leuf wrote:

It's a G0555 (Grizzly). I'm going to use it without the setscrew for a few weeks, then, or until I stop having to adjust it.
Thanks.
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