Stuff about chain saws. As a young man, I used little 12" bar and big chain saws up in the trees and on the ground. I've used the old two-man saws, alone and with another person, and many brands of saw. After hundreds and hundreds of trees, oak, pine, wild cherry, poplar, and clearing land, I have learned a lot about chain saws. As far as cutting to the right or left, some cheaper chainsaws aren't center balanced but are motor weighted to the left, and will drive you nuts anyway. If your saw is balanced, the follow info applies. I've mostly changed my own bars and chains, and sharpened my own chains by hand, except when a saw was in for engine repairs. The secret of maintaining a good chain is to have the proper tension and oil, oil, oil. We used to buy the cheapest motor oil by the gallon and even when a saw had an automatic oiler, constantly pumped the manual oiler. Before you cut a log, you should be able to see some oil being flung off the chain onto the wood. the chains are metal on metal and oil is the only cooling agent. If you are cutting a 24" or larger log, you should stop occasionally and pour some oil into the cut while the saw is still in it. Then continue. If you are cutting a stump, some are pretty large and you will be at it for a while. No matter what, don't touch dirt with the chain blades. Clean around the stump and cut it high to save your saw. We usually kept an older saw with a well used chain for stumps, because touching dirt with the blades instantly dulls them and the heat will start building up on the bar. Sharpening: If you have the right size rat tail file for the blades, you can touch the blades up evenly, any time you want. Keep them sharp. You don't need a machine sharpener. Ever. The machine sharpeners tend to sharpen conservatively, straighter across than I like. An angle is nicer. Sharpen from the concave cut, across and finishing with an upstroke up. You don't want to cause a deep concave groove in the blade or it will "dig" to much and slight differences on right or left blades will exaggerate any left or right pull. Sharpen the cutting blades on one side first, then the other. Then if you experience left of right cutting direction, you simply touch up the side that isn't as sharp. It will straighten out. Don't push a chain saw through a log. You can rock it, but let the saw do the work. If properly sharpened it will simply "dig" itself through the log. The cutting depth guides that are part of the little cutting teeth and are in front of each one determine the depth of cut. These are filed down with a flat file when necessary. It is not necessary very often. Here's why. Cutting different types of wood will make the chain saw work differently. If you are cutting something soft like pine, willow, palm, poplar, etc, a sharp saw will go through like butter, and if the guides are filed down, it will throw large chips. If you then cut hardwoods, the chain will bite too much and the saw will work too hard, the bar will heat up, and bind a little. If you are bucking (cutting up from underneath the wood), the saw will throw itself back at you. Use the flat edge of the flat file across the top of the teeth to see how far down the guides are when new, and keep them at that depth, If you break a tooth off, get rid of the chain. Sometimes you will find pieces of metal buried and grown into trees from decades ago, and will damage a chain. It is important to get rid of the damaged chain. A chain with a missing tooth will still cut softwood, but, if you buck from under a hardwood, the chain skipping the missing tooth will catch the next tooth and slam the saw upward into your hand or face. It gets messier from there. Brush cutting is even more dangerous with a missing tooth. When you check the tension of the chain, it should sit comfortably, unexpanded with all the chain guides seated in the bar. It shouldn't hang to where the guides along the bottom of the bar are not seated, but you may see a portion of a few guides. The chain will loosen after the first use, so tighten it a little when it does. You should be able to pluck the top part of the chain upward, and see the guides trying to leave the bar grove, without doing so entirely. If you aren't stretching the chain pulling upward, but there is the same amount of play you would leave in a wheel bearing, you've got it. Remember, you can never use too much oil on a chain, and occasionally shut the saw off and clean the sawdust away from the oiler port at the back of the blade.