size &/or "Wonder" wheel, grinding disk, or blade on TS for safe cutting of acrylic light shield plastic

again

formatting link
?postal=m4g+2r9&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443277381&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672971&bmForm=form_set_price_list&bmFormID=1164757430880&bmUID=1164757430880&bmHash=75212f682c95d534a61db92475f0c1b773a15348is my TS. It has an 15A, 3hp, 10", 5000rpm, standard 5/8" round arbor, and came e with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped combination blade. I also have a

10" 200-tooth alternating kerf blade I bought for plywood. I am not sure if this m/c has anything in common wit soft-start technology.

I need to cut a new piece of that thin plastic sheet for a fluorescent light housing I am making, as well as replace another cover have. I have to cut them through 4' lengths. it is very thin, like 1/16"ish.

I am curious if I will ever get the need to buy any type of special wheel/disk/blade that will fit in my TS that is designed for cutting plastics and other non-wood materials.

I have just been to Canadian Tire and Home Depot. HD has something called a "Wonder" disk/wheel, which abrades in chips as opposed to cuts like a blade. Well that is the theory of grinding when it comes to metal, significantly.

Could I cut this thin prismatic pattern acrylic plastic sheet (sign says acrylic doesn't yellow as opposed to styrene) with either of the wood blades I already have? The plywood blade actually has the two words "WOOD" and "PLASTIC" printed on it.

However, barring that, and assuming I now need to buy an "abrading disk/wheel' I come to my questions:

The "Wonder" disk at HD is 8" I think, maybe 7". I didn't look at it closely, but maybe it is a little different that a regular grinding wheel of the (concrete/metal/cut-off) variety, and may have applications above and beyond, regardless of its (not max of 10") size, which would allow for future uses. I think it may have a more open structure. There are a lot of regular grinding disks that come in lager sizes, including 10", in metal and concrete cut-off type. They may be intended for other tools, and can/do say on the package "for use with tools having metal guards" (like circ saws, and grinders). In fact I am not even sure about the wonder wheel use on a TS. So is it safe? I would say my options are either 8" (or 7") "Wonder" wheel, or up to, & definitely including 10" 3/32" or 1/8" metal-type cut-off grinding wheel. Could get the concrete, but probably thicker and therefor n.a. All of the wheels have a safe max. rpm, I just checked them all. Not sure about the guard/soft-start stuff though.

Reply to
bent
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again

formatting link
?postal=m4g+2r9&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443277381&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672971&bmForm=form_set_price_list&bmFormID=1164757430880&bmUID=1164757430880&bmHash=75212f682c95d534a61db92475f0c1b773a15348is my TS. It has an 15A, 3hp, 10", 5000rpm, standard 5/8" round arbor, and came e with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped combination blade. I also have a

10" 200-tooth alternating kerf blade I bought for plywood. I am not sure if this m/c has anything in common wit soft-start technology.

I need to cut a new piece of that thin plastic sheet for a fluorescent light housing I am making, as well as replace another cover have. I have to cut them through 4' lengths. it is very thin, like 1/16"ish.

I am curious if I will ever get the need to buy any type of special wheel/disk/blade that will fit in my TS that is designed for cutting plastics and other non-wood materials.

I have just been to Canadian Tire and Home Depot. HD has something called a "Wonder" disk/wheel, which abrades in chips as opposed to cuts like a blade. Well that is the theory of grinding when it comes to metal, significantly.

Could I cut this thin prismatic pattern acrylic plastic sheet (sign says acrylic doesn't yellow as opposed to styrene) with either of the wood blades I already have? The plywood blade actually has the two words "WOOD" and "PLASTIC" printed on it.

However, barring that, and assuming I now need to buy an "abrading disk/wheel' I come to my questions:

The "Wonder" disk at HD is 8" I think, maybe 7". I didn't look at it closely, but maybe it is a little different that a regular grinding wheel of the (concrete/metal/cut-off) variety, and may have applications above and beyond, regardless of its (not max of 10") size, which would allow for future uses. I think it may have a more open structure. There are a lot of regular grinding disks that come in lager sizes, including 10", in metal and concrete cut-off type. They may be intended for other tools, and can/do say on the package "for use with tools having metal guards" (like circ saws, and grinders). In fact I am not even sure about the wonder wheel use on a TS. So is it safe? I would say my options are either 8" (or 7") "Wonder" wheel, or up to, & definitely including 10" 3/32" or 1/8" metal-type cut-off grinding wheel. Could get the concrete, but probably thicker and therefor n.a. All of the wheels have a safe max. rpm, I just checked them all. Not sure about the guard/soft-start stuff though.

Reply to
bent

I'd use a utility knife and a straight edge.

Reply to
Nova

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Reply to
George E. Cawthon

Why not just use a sheetrock knife? A tablesaw is overkill for this project.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

well if anybodys still coming in here to look, are these types of wheels safe, and how about the sizes, I would think if it is safe, the bigger the better, and I have no idea of a miinimum. A 10" 3/32" metal cut-off 6000 (or 7200) rpm, 5/8" arbor is $6. Same with 1/8". Isn't this usefull. What about abs and pvc, say pipe?

Reply to
bent

I would not use an abrasive type wheel on a table saw. These blades are designed to come apart as they're used. When used on an angle grinder or circ. saw, they have a metal guard covering most of the blade, so that if/when the blade breaks up, the pieces are contained (somewhat). Imagine that abrasive blade breaking up while spinning in a table saw - those pieces that go flying would be a pretty serious hazard. Now, with a zero clearance insert and a blade guard in place, you could minimize the risk, but why bother. As others have said, for what you are trying to cut, the best bet is to use a straight edge and a razor knife.

Mike

Reply to
Mike

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The problem with cutting plastic sheet is cracking and chipping and melting and sticking to the blade. I doubt that any kinda table saw blade will give a clean cut on plastic. Was it me, I'd clamp a good straight edge to the plastic and score it deeply with a utility knife. Then break it along the score line. I made an enclosure for a kitchen fluorescent ceiling lamp many years ago, and used a utility knife to cut the plastic.

David Starr

Reply to
David Starr

well ther goes another dream

Reply to
bent

I use my table saw to cut plastic sheet by setting the blade to cut only part of the way through. Like a score only faster, especially for pieces longer than my straight edge. The only downside is the plastic dust gets a static charge and sticks to everything.

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Reply to
willim

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