Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

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september.org:

Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*
Puckdropper
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On 1/22/10 5:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

Weird. 7th result, when I did it.
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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 1/20/10 7:22 AM, StephenM wrote:

I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa.
As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.

I bought that for the runner on my router table coping sled and I'm not a fan. It works fine, but it's too difficult to hone in the width. Next one I buy (if I do) will have the the little nubs that push out from one side, like this one... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page !651
However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps, which are "free."

That's what I'm aiming at, right now. BTW, the melamine was "free," too.

Thanks for the input!
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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OK
My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too.

You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies.
Cheers,
Steve
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On 1/20/10 1:41 PM, StephenM wrote:

Understood. But I also like some mass to things like this. The weight holds it down to the table. I like the mass on my tenoning jig, too. I don't what it is... it just feels better to me to push something with some mass. It's like it doesn't feel any different to push whether you have a big or a little piece of stock in it.

I don't know about better skills. :-) I had a long strip of poplar or hickory close to size. I ran it through my planer until it was a good height, then again to get a perfect width.
And you're right, there seems to be more play with double runners. Even though both runners fit perfectly, I'm prepared to deal with some seasonal change, by employing something similar to this technique... <http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/make-an-adjustable-miter-bar/
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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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1/2" birch ply, finished with a ragged-on linseed oil / poly varnish / paint thinner mix and waxed. I can slide parts around very easily, but they stay in place with just a slight downward push. Looks pretty, too.
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make sure it's square
shelly
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-MIKE- wrote:

Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels. I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for straight cuts so no miter gauge. _____________

The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".
The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push the sled. ____________

I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut off. I'll fix that one of these days...
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dadiOH
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Can you post a pic?
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Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side. It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with the leading fence end where the blade came through.
With the fence in the back your mark needs to be on the nottom front edge of the board and you need to lean over far enough to see the alignmant of the mark with the end of the bed of the sled where the blade came through.
Because I wanted more than a 90 degree cutting sled I bought a left and right version of these sleds about 10 years ago. They still work very very well. You can cut most any angle accurately and make repeated cuts accurately.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
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On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:

I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great idea, then and now.

I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for miters.
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-MIKE-

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IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.
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On 1/17/10 3:38 PM, Leon wrote:

I wouldn't argue with that. :-)
'preciate it.
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-MIKE-

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I am about to make a sled and would appreciate sample drawings if you have them available... let me know what I need to do. Thanks
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"blueman" wrote:

--------------------------------- Here is one from the WoodSmithJob that is simple and neat.
Lew
http://tinyurl.com/ycf73f9
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two things:
I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any lateral slip of the workpiece.
Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.

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Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks
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wrote:

Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks
If memory serves (and it rarely does), it was about 3" x 3"
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On 1/17/10 9:00 AM, Joe wrote:

I did that to the coping sled I made for the router table and it works wonders. I'd say it's a certain necessity for melamine.

Have any pics?
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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

The three I use the most:
http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.
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www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
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