By definition "rough" is not "square".
That said, a simple solution is to put a spacer board between the fence and the workpiece to allow it to extend past the stop block.
I know this because I frequently set up my stop block and then realize that I had not yet squared up my ends.
-Steve
Yeah, that exactly why I used the term.
You make a rough cut close to the finished size, then a final cut on the sled.
Pretty much standard practice for large stock.
Made a set of stop blocks that clamp into the saw table's t-slots. Haven't found them all that useful with a sled. Just keep your thumbs out of the blade's path. If you accidentally nick your sled's aft blade guard cover, it's not that big a deal.
1/2" birch ply, finished with a ragged-on linseed oil / poly varnish / paint thinner mix and waxed. I can slide parts around very easily, but they stay in place with just a slight downward push. Looks pretty, too.
-MIKE- wrote in news:hjcptv$f18$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal- september.org:
Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*
Puckdropper
Weird. 7th result, when I did it.
That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.
Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.
We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile."
All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections. The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. "
So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting finger joints.
I am about to make a sled and would appreciate sample drawings if you have them available... let me know what I need to do. Thanks
--------------------------------- Here is one from the WoodSmithJob that is simple and neat.
Lew
Can you post a pic? Thanks
can you post a pic?
Can you post a pic?
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