I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
when I have to cut sheet goods.
I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
rolling the machines over grooves.
If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
assaulted by the wheels.
Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
outdoor NJ exposure.
I probably won't build it until next spring.
I wouldn't butt deck boards together.
Just brainstorming with the following, how about an overlay on a
Hardboard - probably have to be replaced every couple years, but cheap.
Hardiboard - makes good siding, not sure about for a floor product.
Metal - probably too hot in the summer.
Just ideas to start a discussion.
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
The shed sits on masonry blocks which are in turn sitting on an 8" bed
of crushed stone. This was required by the bldg. code.
The actual floor of the shed is 9 inches above ground level. The land
here is VERY sandy soil (NJ shore area). The land rises a few inches
as it gets farther from the front.
My initial thinking was concrete slab, so I had asked to get some idea
of how much fill may be required, for a slab to be even with your shed
floor. Shouldn't be very difficult or expensive to lay another
foundation and, I suppose, you would have to do so, anyway, whether
you elected to pour a slab or frame a deck, since your state seems to
require it, no matter what.
Whichever you elect, might as well build/pour as big of one as you can
afford, manage, have space for, etc., so you won't have to address the
issue later, i.e., go through any code issue again, if that's a
Another consideration (for the future, maybe?): What might be the
propect of using a newly poured slab to become the floor of a new
shed, later. Would this relocation, of a later shop (I like shop,
better), be coordinated with your surroundings/lawn?
Use concrete block or landscaping bricks for a skirt to bring it up to
the grade of the shed and packed fill dirt and crusher-run gravel dust.
If the shed is on grade with the surrounding ground, pour a floating
slab foundation. Google it. The "footing" portion doesn't have to be as
deep and wide as it would to hold a structure above... just deep enough
to keep the pad from creeping due to freeze and thaw.
If you go the lumber route, pressure treated plywood for the deck.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Advance to "GO" and collect $200, then go straight to a concrete slab.
BTDT, forget the T-Shirt.
Wood will rot.
A concrete slab can be used for winter storage when you include a
I vote concrete slab. Compare costs for a framed deck vs concrete.
Concrete may be cheaper and no maintenance. No footing is required.
Compare costs for a 10'X12' or 12'X14' slab, too. You may want to
enlarge your shed or replace it, in the future. *12'X14' may need an
Sorry for being late to the party.
The ply with linoleum is not a bad way to go, but you would need to glue it
down to the ply with mastic. Otherwise, it would roll forward from rolling
a heavy machine, like a wave. BTDT. I would use a layer of 1/2" then a
layer of 3/4" with the seams not falling in the same place.
Easier to just lay another layer of ply and sheet goods over the first,
layer, when the sheet goods needs to be replaced. The good thing about
using sheet goods is the fact that it will keep
the ply somewhat dry, to make it last longer. I would use treated ply,
instead of exterior ply. The ext will not hold up for more than a couple
The best way is the concrete, but forget the steel for the base. WAY more
expensive, compared to gravel or dirt fill.
I had a friend that put a new deck on his pontoon boat. He used treated
plywood, and then covered it with a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
Very durable, and the fiberglass kept the wood dry.
You would not be happy with using planks like a regular deck. It would have
to use pneumatic wheels to roll around machines. Still, dropped screws and
nails and parts of machines being taken apart will always disappear down the
cracks. Murphy's Law, I think!
Jim in NC
How about exterior (non-porous) tile for the surface? The underlying
structure would have to be pretty stiff to take the machinery but
should be do-able. Grout lines may be an issue but this could be
minimized with an 18x18.
What's the difference between tile and concrete? If you're worried
about electricity and water mixing, tile should be better. If it's
slipping that's the problem, the tile can be selected for its slip
resistance. A litttle slope should clear it of water pretty quickly.
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