Shop with an exterior platform. What type of flooring would hold up?

[willshak]

Concrete is more absorbent. Yeah, putting a table saw or RAS on a a slanted surface would be much better!

[willshak]

J. Clarke wrote the following:

It absorbs water better.

[willshak]

Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may have left?

[-MIKE-]

Tangent.... They started using a porous concrete for non structural applications that cover the ground, like sidewalks and parking lots, in order to reduce flooding from storm waters.

The stuff is remarkable. They held up a slab of it and let a hose run on top. The water ran through a 4" slab like a coffee filter.

[-MIKE-]

Wow, Bill. You couldn't assume by my statement that I hadn't clued in to the slippage issue? Did I miss the smiley face?

To the point, I would brush finish the pad like a driveway and not like an indoor floor. I've played plenty of basketball games on wet concrete driveways with no slipping.

For that matter, how many of us have used our power tools on a driveway at a client's house? This is not rocket surgery, folks.

[Sonny]

My initial thinking was concrete slab, so I had asked to get some idea of how much fill may be required, for a slab to be even with your shed floor. Shouldn't be very difficult or expensive to lay another foundation and, I suppose, you would have to do so, anyway, whether you elected to pour a slab or frame a deck, since your state seems to require it, no matter what.

Whichever you elect, might as well build/pour as big of one as you can afford, manage, have space for, etc., so you won't have to address the issue later, i.e., go through any code issue again, if that's a hassle.

Another consideration (for the future, maybe?): What might be the propect of using a newly poured slab to become the floor of a new shed, later. Would this relocation, of a later shop (I like shop, better), be coordinated with your surroundings/lawn?

Sonny

[-MIKE-]

I neglected to mention it in my post, but that's one reason I suggested a floating slab foundation. He would be ready to go, when and if he decided to expand the shop.. er, shed.

[Upscale]

Yeah, but when I used my 1/2 sheet powered pad sander with 400 grit sandpaper, I had a lot of difficulty putting a non-slip surface on the concrete. :)

[-MIKE-]

Sorry, I'm dense... I don't get it.

[J. Clarke]

And you can't slip on concrete?

[willshak]

J. Clarke wrote the following:

I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile after a rain, but your mileage may vary.

[-MIKE-]

Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?

[Larry Jaques]

Tiny sander, way too fine a grit, very large surface to prep.

I'd have run 32 grit on the belt sandah and let it run across the pad by itself, hauling it back by the cord to get the surface prepped. You?

-- You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. --Jack London

[Upscale]

Sounds like an excuse to slack off and practice your sander racing.

[willshak]

I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor concrete? All outdoor concrete that is going to remain bare is, or should be, broom brushed to reduce slippage.

[-MIKE-]

My point, exactly.

[willshak]

I did no such thing. Nowhere in this thread from my entrance (all quoted above) is smoothed concrete even mentioned until you mentioned it.

[-MIKE-]

You are correct, sir. My bad.

[willshak]

Fuggetaboutit. :-)

[Morgans]

Sorry for being late to the party.

The ply with linoleum is not a bad way to go, but you would need to glue it down to the ply with mastic. Otherwise, it would roll forward from rolling a heavy machine, like a wave. BTDT. I would use a layer of 1/2" then a layer of 3/4" with the seams not falling in the same place.

Easier to just lay another layer of ply and sheet goods over the first, layer, when the sheet goods needs to be replaced. The good thing about using sheet goods is the fact that it will keep the ply somewhat dry, to make it last longer. I would use treated ply, instead of exterior ply. The ext will not hold up for more than a couple years.

The best way is the concrete, but forget the steel for the base. WAY more expensive, compared to gravel or dirt fill.

I had a friend that put a new deck on his pontoon boat. He used treated plywood, and then covered it with a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Very durable, and the fiberglass kept the wood dry.

You would not be happy with using planks like a regular deck. It would have to use pneumatic wheels to roll around machines. Still, dropped screws and nails and parts of machines being taken apart will always disappear down the cracks. Murphy's Law, I think!

Jim in NC