Shop Flooring

I put down a plastic vapor barrier then "shot down" 1x4 and 1x3 grid, filled the open area with 3/4" styrofoam blocks and covered the whole thing with 2 layers of 5/8" exterior plywood staggering the second layer so no joints over joints. It's been great and did not take too much from the room height.

BRuce

Harvey wrote:

Since you raised the top level of the floor approximately 2 inches how did you deal with the increased height of the door sill on exterior doors? Brian

door was set on top of bottom plate of wall and I had them leave sill off. After floor was installed, I needed about 3/8" to make the sill level so used a piece of plywood to fill under the sill. There is a slight step up from the outside but none inside.

The sliding door from the shop to the garage I ramped the floor down inside the shop to the level of the concrete. that way I can wheel stuff in and out. started about a foot inside the shop and it is in an area that I don't walk much so there is no trip point. not much of a slope 2" over 1'.

BRuce

Brian wrote:

I recently solved the concrete floor problem in my shop. With the help of this group I unearthed a product called 'Subflor', made in Canada. It consists of 2' x 2' squares of T & G oriented strand board with a dimpled, heavy plastic bonded to the bottom. The dimpled plastic provides for air circulation beneath the floor, and water runoff as necessary. As installed, it is a floating system needing no fastening to the floor. The 'finished' floor thickness is 7/8" and is very comfortable to stand on. My equipment doesn't bother the floor as far as weight is concerned. You can get more information at

Tin Woodsmn

Thanks for the reply BRuce. Brian

In the shop design I had drawn up, the door frames are mounted higher in the walls so the thresholds will be even with the raised floor.

I'm trying to decide if I actually want to spend the money right now on my shop building.

Brian Elfert