Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert

[-MIKE-]

These are very easy to make.

[Leon]

I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small

3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris.

[-MIKE-]

Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side.

I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent.

I also have an idea for swappable splitters, using pins/screws that go in from the edge of the insert, parallel to the top.

[Leon]

I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.

Actually I made several of these inserts for my commonly used dado width combinations, 4 IIRC. I bet I did not spend 5 minutes total adjusting all of them. That really is not a factor.

[-MIKE-]

Yes, I used a finish screw for that.

[Leon]

I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck.

[-MIKE-]

Now I need a picture.

[clare]

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit.

[Morris Dovey]

Wrong thread? The OP provided:

doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-)

[-MIKE-]

Oh Lord, this made my day! It's taking me forever just to type this from laughing so hard!

[-MIKE-]

Look again, Mo. :-)

(I *almost* replaced them all, just to f#@k with you.)

[clare]

OOOPS!!!!

[clare]

Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention

- - - - - - - - - .

[Lew Hodgett]

A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out the back of the insert about 3/8", works for me.

Lew

[CW]

Yeah, they probably will if they run down to their insurance company and tell them about it.

[Puckdropper]

-MIKE- wrote in news:ho40k6$sp4$ [e-mail]- september.org:

Hey, those are my past attempts at zero clearance inserts there!

I borrowed a jigsaw and traced, cut, and sanded my way to two zero clearance inserts that fit nicely. I'll probably add the splitter to one when I go to use it.

They're not hard to make, especially with a Bosch jigsaw. I only used the jigsaw twice, and miss it.

Puckdropper

[Leon]

I'll shoot you a picture and give you a link.

[Bruce]

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:05:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote (in article ):

Cool way to wedge in a splitter!

I used my original Delta insert as a template for making a working insert template. When I get bored I zip out a few on the router table, usually from my scrap pile of 1/2" thick oak. Leveling screws are really short set screws.

How well does the surface of the plywood hold up?

-BR

[Leon]

Here are links to my inserts.

Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep the insert from lifting in the back.

view showing back retainer

[Leon]

See my "Ping Mike" picture links.