I am refinishing a dresser and I have painstakingly stripped old paint,
cleaned with mineral spirits to not raise the grain and then sanded with 60,
150 and then 220 grit. So now that I have used a latex sealer and two coats
of latex paint I have noticed that the grain is raised after the paint has
I am thinking that since water raises grain and the paint I used is
water-based. So the paint raised the grain?
If this is true, what is recommended to prevent this? After sanding, should
I put a coat of shellac or something like that and then prime and paint over
that? Any advice would be appreciated!
Even shellac will (slightly) raise the grain, though much less than water. If
really rough, then after you sand, slightly dampen it, let dry and lightly
scuff sand. Then the shellac. Or, the BIN or equivalent that Barry suggested
would be even better. Just make sure you don't get a pigmented sealer that
cleans up with water.
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 00:54:14 GMT, B a r r y
I tried shellac sanding sealer under latex and found the latex looked ok but
chipped or rubbed off easily. The surface was so smooth that adhesion was
poor. Shellac over latex on the other hand is fine.
Not fresh, it was an old bottle of commercial mix. It seemed to harden OK.
Don't know if it was dewaxed, I'm no expert on shellac. I wanted a smooth
surface under the paint, and got it, but had to try something else. Would
dewaxed stuff be better? How can you tell if it is?
Use dewaxed shellac whenever you are gonna overcoat it.
Shellac with wax in it should be used only by itself. The
wax will reduce water resistance and also interfere with
adhesion of topcoats.
Canned premixed is usually waxy except for Zinssers Seal Coat which is
dewaxed. Spray shellac is dewaxed. Fresh mixed shellac has typically
6 month shelf life after mixing. Seal Coat has atypical 3 year shelf
life from date on bottom of the can. My understanding is dewaxed can
be coated over waxy providing a viable barrier coat for latex. Test
On 15 Aug 2004 21:32:24 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Tvaughan1234)
Dewaxed shellac is a good barrier to any remaining chemical
stripper residue. Zinnser's "Seal Coat" would be a good
choice. Check the bottom of the can for the date. It
doesn't last forever. I try to buy mine no older than 6 months.
Yeah, actually, that's probably what I would do, as it's simple. If it was
really rough and needs a lot of sanding, then I'd apply another very thin coat
of primer after the sanding. That would finish sealing with very little grain
raising. The shellac approach would work, but be more work. What's missing is
that we can't see just how bad it is.
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 11:35:34 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Yup, ANY primer, if you want a nice finish. Just taught my daughter about
that on some S4S 1 x 12 pine she was going to use for new baseboards. She
put on a coat of Orange shellac, then next day I hit a spot with some 320
just lightly by hand,enough to knock the "fuzz" off, then it was nice 'n'
smooth like a baby's butt. She decided to sand the rest, then about three
more coats shellac, they look real nice against the light color woodgrain
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
Norman, agreed. Especially if you were building the shellac up to a surface
film (then definitely!). However, that thickness is not really needed for
sealing. Typically using a 1/2# cut apply one coat, scuff sand surface to
remove broken fibers now locked in place, then a 2nd coat to complete the
sealing (dewaxed shellac, of course). At this point you could lightly sand,
but the resulting surface is probably still pretty rough as there's little
surface film built up.
The same formula also works under most water base clear finishes to prevent
grain raising, and a 1/2# cut of shellac will dry very-very fast. An
additional benefit in that case is the shellac will cover any trace amounts of
resin or oil that might give the wb finish some trouble.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 14:36:37 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
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