Sharpening

[Swingman]

Not in the least ... AAMOF, just the opposite.

Sounds like someone had an axe to grind. ;)

[Swingman]

My bet is you are going to enjoy using it, you will sharpen every tool in your shop the first day, and most will be still be sharp, with just a bit of stropping, six month later.

I do not like to take the time to sharpen a tool (dislike it more than sanding) and therefore with all other methods I often let sharpening go much longer than was prudent. Since the WS3000 purchase, my tools have never consistently been this sharp for this long. I would not trade the WS3000 for all the Sharpton stones you could truck down here.

It simply works ... granted, basically all I've used it for is chisels and plane irons,and I've had to finish up a corner chisel by hand on the inside edges a time or two, but that would have been the case with other methods.

Like all tools, I sure there are some things it won't do, and someone will always find something lacking in any tool, but my highest accolade remains: I would buy it again if I lost it.

[Han]

Larry Jaques wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Probably . As much as I dislike Al Sharpton, there is no need for the language you used. Remember, I worked for some 35 years in New York City, the last couple of decades going through metal detectors at the NY VA at least once a day.

[Dave]

Sounds like a machine tool sharpener is the way to go. Like you, I've never liked havning to put in the time to sharpen tools, but I do appreciate a tool when it's properly edged.

Now I'm considering buying a Tormek sharpener.

[tiredofspam]

Han, with your shapton stones, were you taught by the japanese wood worker guy?

If you were you can't miss. If not, I'll try to explain.

1st you need to have your bench lower than you think for freehand sharpening.

instead of rubbing the iron back and forth which can lead to you rocking the iron, you orient the iron so the width of the iron is parallel to the length of the stone. Then you press on the iron at the bevel and get the iron to its bevel. Now with your finger still holding pressure down at the bottom grab the blade with your remaining thumb and other hand and move the iron back and forth along it's width, This will give you a sharp edge. When you are done take a few swipes with the blade up a little higher for a micro bevel.

This works for me better than the width of the ir> Larry Jaques wrote in

[Han]

tiredofspam wrote in news:l4-dne3iaZoOT3nTnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]:

Thanks!! I'll try that.

[Larry Blanchard]

Duh! The thought never crossed my mind. Maybe I should take up rocking chair sitting instead of ww :-).

But if the whole wheel is exposed, as it is on the WS3000, I suspect the natural tendency would be to use the nearest part.

[Scott Lurndal]

With narrow tools (chisels, narrow plane blades), you feed the blade bevel up through a guide against the _bottom_ of the horizontal disc.

In that case, the polishing pattern leaves slight swirls across the bevel, such that they are not quite perpendicular to the sharpened edge.

I certainly haven't notice that the edges are any weaker.

scott

[Father Haskell]

600 diamond for primary bevel / general sharpening. 1200 diamond for secondary / microbevel. Black surgical Arkansas for fine knives, where the mesh pattern on the 1200 stone would blunt the edge. Medium cotton buffing wheel and chrome green compound for quickly stropping off the stubborn last bit of wire edge. For tools you don't lend out, the whole sharpening sequence takes less than three minutes.

[Jim Weisgram]

6" grinder (not a Tormek, a regular grinder with a white wheel) to establish the bevel (only if a new bevel is needed) . Then on to waterstones. 1000 grit until I get a wire edge, then 8000 grit to finish. Stropping after to touch up until time for a new sharpening.

No sharpening jig needed, the hollow grind from the grinder gives you a bevel that will naturally sit flat on the stone.