Set Screws vs. Cap Screws

Have you considered drilling a through hole through the coupling and rod and using a cotter pin or hitch pin?

Reply to
Larry W
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------------------------------------------------------------------------- Took a look at pics, Haven't yet figured out how the pooch is going to help.

Is he the job super?

The following is based on you having access to metal working and welding.

Picture a pipe flange. It will give you an idea of what I'm about to describe.

Start with a 1" dia x 3" long CR1018 CRS and drill a 1/2" dia x 2" deep hole.

From the opposite end, drill and tap 8MM threaded hole, 1-1/8" deep.

This eliminates drilling an tapping the full 3".

Cut a 3" dia x 1/4" thick piece from CR1018 CRS.

Drill 12, 8 MM clearance holes, equally spaced on a 2-1/2" dia bolt circle.

Drill a 1" clearance thru hole on centerline of 3" dia plate.

Position 1" dia x 3" long piece in flat plate with 8 MM thread up and projecting

3/4" above plate, then weld.

Using white oak or similar hard wood, cut a 3" dia x 3" long piece, then drill a 1" dia thru hole. (Parallel to end grain)

Drill only one 8MM clearance hole x 1-1/2" deep on a 2-1/2" dia bolt circle.

Mount this white oak piece in table at a 30 degree angle as req'd.

Thread 8 MM lock nut and weldment onto plane stud as req'd.

Drop weldment into white oak piece and rotate until hole in weldment lines up with hole in white oak piece, then insert 8MM pin to prevent rotation.

Line up plane to final position and lock in place with lock nut.

Grab a beer and greet the world with a shit eating grin.

Have fun.

BTW, if you can't find CR1018 CRS (Cold rolled), use CR 1020 HRS(Hot rolled)

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

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Yes, the pointed, round, ball work best w/ a matching reset, the cup w/ the little toothies will bite into your threads iff'en you don't want the flat or they ignore it.

I came to me this morning -- there's model-sizes of square and/or hex or octagonal telescoping tubing that would provide a specific orientation...

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Reply to
dpb

I would not use either as they require a separate tool which beg to be forgotten or lost. I would use a simple knob like this:

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if you want to get a bit fancier, one of these:

Reply to
DanG

50mm rods.
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> Sonny

This is what I was think of using.

Reply to
Leon

The flat will not always be in the same position.

Reply to
Leon

Yes but the hle will not always be in the same position. Customer wants to be able to position to liking and then make stationary.

Reply to
Leon

OK, Thank you all for your suggestions!

Swingman has suggested an entirely different approach, to probably a bit more costly, and it seems to address all the issues of mounting to the airplane and with a few modification of my own address being able to quickly mount the airplanes and mounts onto the display posts.

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again!

Reply to
Leon

Brother....

This is what I "was" thinking of using...

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Reply to
Leon

So here's my take on this If you make it able to rotate, you might do more damage on the far wing, or smaller plane if the larger plane swings into the smaller mount or plane.

But that is not my choice it's yours or your customer's.

I still think you would be better with a belly cradle (smallish) and use the stud to secure it to the belly cradle. you might actually use a piece of metal in the cradle to allow it to be tilted based on their preference , so the metal plate is rounded (conforming to the bottom of the cradle) and has an elongated slot across the cradle (not lengthwise) allowing the model to be leaned at their preference. Tightening the nut would tighten the position the model is locked at.

If you do decide to continue with the shaft and allow movement. Put an arm on the shaft and limiters to prevent the model from being able to swing if hit. Allow it to just remove the initial energy, but not damage the other model or itself.

Wish I were good at sketchup. Wish I could draw... nice work you and Swingy do w/Sketchup.

Now >

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Reply to
tiredofspam

Reply to
tiredofspam

I under stand your concerns. These airplanes are not exactly fragile but my biggest concern is twisting the nut out of the bottom of the airplane. They do break down, the wings and landing gear come off, and are shipped from show to show in very nice shipping containers about the size of a small refrigerator. The airplanes already have stands that they are displayed on but not at the angle that the customer wants. He wants more tilt to take up less display floor space. Any way I think a rubber washer between the airplane and the jam nut might allow enough give should one of the wings take a bump.

thanks! I probably spend 1/3 of my time designing, 2/3's building. A lot easier and less expensive to get it right on a drawing.

Now on to more important things.. Nice dog,

The one sucking the pillow? I swear she would smoke cigarettes if they were around.

but whats the cash of money

Payment for a kitchen job about 8 years ago, neighbor pricing. ;~(

Reply to
Leon

Yabbut, Leon .... you're not supposed to leave it on the table for all that time ...

Shhheeeeesh!

LOL

Reply to
Swingman

On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon

against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations.

My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall.

Reply to
Dave

My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon?

Almost a guarantee, eh? ;)

Reply to
Swingman

There isn't room for 176 dominos! And there is no contrasting woods. And where will you put the 36 drawers? ;-)

Reply to
Lee Michaels

Not in today's world. Besides, the people designing planes and the people in charge of the displays are bound to be different. Mr. Murphy is in charge of that little facet, isn't he?

-- The great thing about getting older is that you don't lose all the other ages you've been. -- Madeleine L'Engle

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Not necessarily your concern. Assuming/guessing who's in charge of what notwithstanding, what is a fact is that when you design-to-build to someone's very specific, and apparently in this case, commercial specifications, your preference about how it is ultimately used don't necessarily mean shit .... unfortunate or not. :)

Reply to
Swingman

Reply to
tiredofspam

Nope, not our (and probably not Leon's) concern at all. But a good vendor of components attempts to pass on potentially good info to the client in case he hasn't thought of it. One or two quick questions, if they're amenable to them, and from there, it's up the client. Give them what they think they want, then go back & fix it later, right? ;)

Along a similar but different line, I've walked away from building or rebuilding a couple projects because the client didn't care about safety or code (not that I know much about them, either.) I used the ploy "That method is not up to building code requirements and my insurance company won't allow me to do that."

-- The great thing about getting older is that you don't lose all the other ages you've been. -- Madeleine L'Engle

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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