Sealing the lids on paint tins

[clare]

Rotating is an action, so I assumed it was more than just turning it over - which would be "inverting" it.

[Leon]

Go up a few posts, the one that states, "store the tins upside down". Then rotating was mentioned as to the reason to store upside down.

Now throw into the mix that new paint in cases is stored upside down. Open a case that is right side up and you find upside down paint cans.

[Gib Bogle]

Makes sense.

[-MIKE-]

This is the only good advice you've gotten. The air inside the can is enough to skin over the paint. Kitchen plastic wrap pushed down into the can, touching the entire surface of the paint will keep air away from the paint... then cap the can with the lid.

Works great on ice cream, too, to keep it from crystallizing or getting freezer burn on the surface.

[John Williamson]

Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for an enlarger and the associated bits, and I do enjoy messing about with proper B&W film. Much more satisfying than manipulating bits, IMO.

[Larry Jaques]

Just make sure you use a paint strainer after opening a can the second time.

[Larry Jaques]

Straining is necessary in either instance. Once my can of Bloxygen is gone, I'll start using argon from my TIG welder to keep stop skinning.

[Larry Jaques]

Skins form with the can in any orientation, trust me.

The proper tool. Buy one with the widest, longest tip for the best results. Paint stores usually have a can of 100 or so on the checkout counter.

[Bill]

This reminds of a question I did not quickly locate the answer to on the web. I have never bought bought paint in greater than 1 gallon units. They are easy to shake and pour into paint trays, etc. What is the usual process for using a *5 gallon* container of paint? I assume it has to be mixed really well (practical to do by hand?) and that a "paint ladle" of some sort would be handy.

Bill

[PeterC]

The tin of emulsion from TS was so thin that a screwdriver would have opened it - like a can opener! The best tool I found for the job was an old metal tyre lever (push-bike size) that id rounded and smoothed about 40 years ago. Plenty of area and no sharp edges. Then "stir thoroughly": even a plastic kitchen thingy (overgrown spoon, metal handle) deformed the can, so a metal stirrer... )h, also about 5mm of freeboard in a 5 litre can...

[Paul Giverin]

Yebbut you can't escape to your desktop and lock the door for the afternoon.

[Paul Giverin]

Don't forget the kettle and biscuit tin.

Absolutely! Watching that image appear in the developer tray is still a magic moment. Beats clicking the "OK" button in Photoshop.

[John Williamson]

Biscuits are banned due to crumbs. I *hate* spotting prints.

[Dave Liquorice]

I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked down over paint trays and rollers.

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

[Dave Liquorice]

Gawd what a faff and lots of containers all mucky with paint...

See other comments about tins stuck to shelves. Think I'll stick with cleaning lid rim and can carefully and tapping the lid fully home. With maybe an inversion to get paint around the inner edges but store the right way up.

[Mrcheerful]

You can get one size packs from screwfix and the like. I tend to get cheapies and throw them for all undercoats and a Harris or something like that for finishing and then immediately clean it.

[dennis]

Hmm! £12 per brush @ 5 minutes to clean = £144 per hour, what does he paint or does he use cr@p brushes? I have some I paid about 15p each for but they ain't for putting gloss on doors.

[Ian Jackson]

That's the container (a large ex-pickled cabbage glass jar works for me) you use to give your brush its first clean with white spirit. You then leave the contents for a week or two, until the paint settles into a sludge, then decant off the white spirit for re-use. Put the jar away for a few months, until the sludge solidifies, then remove the sludge, and dispose of it as a solid lump. Re-use the jar for brush cleaning etc.

Don't you line your shelves with sheets of newspaper?

[Rob]

But will it take a 8"x10" enlarger?

I changed in 2003 (shot my last film), my enlargers(2) are still in the darkroom with a wet bench, colour processor and film processor.

I haven't looked back, better for my health not breathing or touching chemicals.

I can digitize old film formats, manipulate to any film texture and print to 24" wide on the Epson printer.

But I'm thinking of resurrecting my 120 panoramic cameras and the E6 processor. i don't like the feel of digital images.

r

[John Williamson]

Possibly not, but I don't use bigger than 120 rollfilm, anyway.

Another excellent reason. Which reminds me...

I know for a fact that the detail inside the silhouette couldn't possibly be reproduce on *any* digital printout. Black on darker black, it is, and *very* subtle.