Sealing the lids on paint tins

Never heard the term "dead weight hammer" used to describe a "dead blow hammer" before, just wanted to make sure I knew what you meant.

Reply to
Larry W
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--------------------------- Works for me.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I have just been away for a few days so missed the beginning of this tread.

For several years I have been adding gas from my blowtorch to the open can before firmly replacing the lid. Excluding the air in this way means my part tins of paint are always usable with no more than a thorough stir. Wiping as much paint of the rims of both the lid and the tin also helps.

Last weekend I used some very old lead based matt black from a gallon tin I had not opened for at least 7 years. It took a fair bit of stirring but had no skin and gave a perfect result. I originally bought the tin of paint from an MOD surplus dealer for a fiver after the RAF had scrapped it for being out of date, the use by date on the tin was 1990!!!

Mike

Reply to
MuddyMike

Are'nt all hammers "dead weight" hammers? LOL

Reply to
Leon

No, the extra hammers are.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

People keep losing them.

Reply to
Robatoy

I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says "lacquer thinner" on it.

I believe you but I've used it often. I use lacquer thinner a lot for all sorts of cleaning things. I just know that when I use mineral spirits or paint thinner, the pigments settle out, but when I use lacquer thinner, they seem to remain suspended indefinitely.

I guess you are saying to use lacquer for the initial heavy cleaning and finish up with paint thinner? That would work but Paint thinner works fine and I can reuse the thinner after the pigments all settle out. I don't like using used lacquer thinner as it doesn't settle clear, even after long periods, so I'm throwing out lots of thinner.

I haven't seen or used "turps" since I was a kid. I use paint thinner or mineral spirits, because that's what I see on the shelves at a reasonable cost. I don't even know what "Naphtha" is. I've seen the word used a lot around here, and have looked it up a few times. I still don't know what it is, and I ain't looking it up again, cause I know I'll forget anyway. I think Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I was a young?

Reply to
Jack Stein

Reply to
Steve Turner

2 points, maybe more...
Reply to
Jack Stein

You must be from the USA.

Your lacquer thinner will be the same as what we in the UK call Cellulose thinner which is indeed used in vehicle painting or spraying.

The lacquer/cellulose thinner is a very powerful solvent and has many uses, I have a five gallon tub of this in my garage.

Mineral spirit is the same as Turps, but in the UK we call it Turpentine, Turps for short or turps substitute.

You can use either for the initial cleaning but I find the cellulose or naphtha more effective at removing the paint from a brush than turps.

The thinner acts the same way as Naphtha both being very volatile, the mineral spirit however does not clean a paint brush on its own by simply standing the brush in the solvent, only after thorough cleaning the brush is it better served being suspended in mineral spirit which is almost exactly the same as white spirit that I believe you would call a Stoddard solvent in the USA.

As a reminder from the www,

Naphtha is a term usually restricted to a class of colourless, volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures. Obtained as one of the more volatile fractions in the fractional distillation of petroleum (when it is known as petroleum naphtha), in the fractional distillation of coal tar (coal-tar naphtha), and in a similar distillation of wood (wood naphtha), it is used widely as a solvent for various organic substances, such as fats and rubber, and in the making of varnish. Because of its dissolving property it is important as a cleaning fluid; it is also incorporated in certain laundry soaps. Coal-tar (aromatic) naphthas have greater solvent power than petroleum (aliphatic) naphthas. Originally the term naphtha designated a colourless flammable liquid obtained from the ground in Persia. Later it came to be applied to a number of other natural liquid substances having similar properties. Technically, gasoline and kerosene are considered naphthas.

Stephen.

Reply to
stephen.hull

Yes.

The US has a bunch of names for lacquer types too, I don't understand any of them.

When I was a kid painting cars and such, I always had a 5 gallon can of the cheap stuff, for cleaning, primer coats and such. A gallon can of the good, high gloss stuff. I don't have a clue what I get at Home Depot, I don't paint cars any more.

I think there are technical differences in the US as well, although most people use the terms interchangeably. I threw in Terps just to be wordy:-)

I spin the hell out of it with a spinner. Usually comes pretty clean first time, nice and clean the second, and really clean the third.

only after thorough

Don't know about Stoddard solvent. After I clean a (good) brush I wrap it in a cardboard wrapper that came with the brush, or one I made.

I don't even know what "Naphtha"

The following reminder is the reason I quit looking it up. Whole lot of words that makes it clear as mud to me. Naphtha sounds pretty much like lacquer thinner to the untrained eye:-) I was right about the soap however, and it was Fels Naphtha bar soap my mother used to have in the laundry tubs. I replaced it with GoJo and Lava when I was into cars.

Reply to
Jack Stein

I do this - but my reason is that the lid is much easier to remove years later.

Reply to
Zapp Brannigan

What about paint in a bag, without a tin? Tough blood-bag style pouch that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke bottle.

Reply to
Zapp Brannigan

That's far, far too efficient, Z. There'll be none of that!

-- One word frees us of all the weight and pain of life: That word is love. -- Sophocles

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Correct. One needs specialty marbles and membranes and dead-blow hammers and inverted shelving and perimeter-verifiable-impact-lid- adjustment tables and temperature gauges, not to mention hazmat pants....I said NOT to mention hazmat pants!

Reply to
Robatoy

Wine box anyone?

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ

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