You don't need to store them upside down (which as others have pointed out means any skin is under the paint and hard to deal with) simply inverting them once so paint seals the edge of the lid seems to make a difference to me.
Andy
Tesco bags are probably the worst choice for that, especially if they're more than a few weeks old, their bags bio/photo/oxi-degrade very quickly ...
Been mentioned before, I think.
It depends how thick the skin is, if it is thin then usually the oil has not separated and you can just lift the skin off, If it is thick and sat on separated oil then this oil should be stirred back in and then strained to remove the bits of skin, this way you don't lose the integrity of the paint.
Oil paint is not resoluble so you have to remove the skin but sometimes the skin is so thick and hard the paint underneath will need that bit of medium that's still stuck to the base of the skin. Oil paint will become concentrated during use anyway as the solvents or oil evaporate.
You can however add a little boiled Linseed oil if the paint appears far too thick to be satisfactorily usable.
Stephen.
Mineral Naphtha and Linseed oil was what we used to store our paint brushes in, the oil stopped the naphtha from evaporating too quickly, the naphtha will draw out paint completely from the brush stock or bristle base.
Leaving a brush in a turpentine derivative will simply congeal the remainder of paint left in the bristles.
Stephen.
I've never had a skin form in any tin stored upside down. Skin forms because refitted lid rarely seals perfectly and you get slow air exchange, but it does seal much better if you store the tin upside down (and is noticably harder to open;-).
By the way, I noticed on the instructions on a tin it said "do not open with a screwdriver". So what are you supposed to use? I used a screwdriver...
Smile. Get to know the staff. And ask nicely in a Johnstone's decorator centre. And they might give you a special paint tin opener.
That's what I did. Unfortunately not one of the nice Johnstone's branded ones as they had run out, but a not so nice old Dulux one. Can't win 'em all.
Rod
"HeyBub" wrote
And be sure that a dumb blonde doesn't get a hold of these instructions. ;-)
Max
Leon wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Does this have the effect of creating an artificial bottom that keeps the paint closer to the top when the lid is opened? I've noticed polyurethane especially likes to create thick layers on top that must be broken through.
Puckdropper
As the man says. If the skin is on the top you can cut it and remove it ... if underneath it will be mixed, broken and you will have to sieve the paint.
:-)
It is a temp bottom, if it has skimmed over on the bottom it probably needs to be stirred and there goes the bottom, but it is on the bottom.
Might be a good idea if you don't clean the rim...
Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but as a gasket I don't think this applies.
I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with glass marbles to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom for my photo chemicals, but thats long gone! Glass of course doesn't react with the paint, and they stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold the lid on...)
The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to get a gallon of marbles! The dollar store was a good find!
See the pic of my cleaned marbles drying on the stove top at Alt.binaries.photos.original
Yea right - every time I do that with compresses gas it usually blows the lid off :)
Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
Fill the can with CO2 before closing - no oxygen to react with the driers in the paint. CO2 is heavier than air, so displaces the air and stays in the can. Storing the can upside down just puts the "skin" on the bottom
You don't need to visit toy stores. Search the web for "marbles wholesale"
Here's one place that sells about 500 5/8" marbles for $28 (500=half-gallon) (smaller assortments available).
It WILL help keep the paint from stratifying because the heavy parts always sink to the bottom. Constantly changing where the "bottom" is HELPS keep the paint from becoming a cake of pigment etc covered by oil.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news:7af7179o3s8cq8fnprccdsvhql6hk58rl3@
4ax.com:
My sister wanted to stain the deck with some 3 year old deck stain. ALL the solids had settled on to the bottom, where it took some doing to get them back in suspension again. (I used a paint mixer in the drill press.)
It may not keep the contents mixed, but perhaps it will make it easier to mix the contents back together.
Puckdropper
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news:7af7179o3s8cq8fnprccdsvhql6hk58rl3@
4ax.com:
My sister wanted to stain the deck with some 3 year old deck stain. ALL the solids had settled on to the bottom, where it took some doing to get them back in suspension again. (I used a paint mixer in the drill press.)
It may not keep the contents mixed, but perhaps it will make it easier to mix the contents back together.
Puckdropper
===============================
Your kitchen blender works much better for those hard to break up solids. Just don't forget to wash it well before your next protein shake and workout and let the stain settle for a few weeks to remove fine air bubbles.
value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.
Was "constant changing" mentioned??? I believe simply storing upside down was what the conversation was all about. Sure constant changing will help but not simply rotating to the upside down position.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.