Screw lubricant

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Don Fearn wrote:
> > Seen last year along the road: > > > Try our FRESH sweet corn > > The stand's very near > > It'll cost MUCH less than > > A buccaneer > > BurmaCorn > > > > Sure enough, there was a stand selling sweet corn a half mile down the > road . . . .
You gotta love it.
What part of the country?
Lew
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Northern MN.
--
Honk if you love peace and quiet

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I stated: > What part of the country?
Don Fearn wrote: > Northern MN.
Did the mosquitoes file flight plans in that part of MN? <G>
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's winter. They've been ordered to stand down. ;-)
--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
  Click to see the full signature.
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Sun, Feb 11, 2007, 1:49am snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net (BuddyMatlosz) corrected Lew with: That was Brylcream.
Buddy is too modest. He even made a recording of it. http://www.geocities.com/foodedge/sounds/brylcream50s.wav
JOAT Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily. - Johann Von Schiller
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ROTFLMAO.
Thanks, that made my day - which gives you some idea of how my day's been going.
Buddy
(Buddy Matlosz) corrected Lew with: That was Brylcream.
Buddy is too modest. He even made a recording of it. http://www.geocities.com/foodedge/sounds/brylcream50s.wav
JOAT Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily. - Johann Von Schiller
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Sun, Feb 11, 2007, 6:35pm snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net (BuddyMatlosz) doth sayeth: ROTFLMAO. Thanks, that made my day - which gives you some idea of how my day's been going.
That bad eh?
JOAT When in doubt, go to sleep. - Mully Small
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wrote:

My understanding is soap causes rust because the soap attracts moisture. As a once upon a time chemist I can say it at least makes sense, many products do that.
I think the whole point of a wax ring is that it will stay inert and in place without decomposing essentially forever.
Anyway, the wax ring stuff is what I use for wood screws to make them drive easily. It is about as cheap a product as you can use, I think it works better than paraffin or candles. There are products on the market that are specifically made for this purpose (Lloyds Akempucky, et al) but they are a lot more expensive.
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wrote:

I use bar soap, and it's always been fine. I'd caution you against using that wax ring for anything but installing a toilet, though. Having done that job a number of times when remodeling, it's some of the stickiest, nastiest crap there ever was- if you can't get it off your fingers, I can't even imagine how hard it would be to get off unfinished wood! It's also going to pick up every speck of anything that may be floating around the shop as soon as you open it, so expect it to be a real mess unless you plan to keep it in some kind of covered container after opening.
Perhaps a better experiment would be paste wax. I think I may have used it in the past for this, but I can't recall how well it did or did not work.
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Bar soap works until you use ferrous metals.
Beeswax is a bit sticky, but I don't recall ever experiencing problems getting it off my hands: I'm sitting here looking at a new toilet flange ring that I just poked and prodded a bit. It is sticky, but it doesn't adhere to my hands.
Probably, it's better to pick up beeswax, wing and leg parts and all, from a local beekeeper. That is not as sticky, can be easily cleaned (melt and pour through cheesecloth) if you feel a need, and works beautifully without ever drawing water to itself. That said, plain old floor wax works just fine, too. When I built my deck, I lined up about 20 screws at a time in a can of Johnson's and went from there. It worked beautifully.
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Bar soap works until you use ferrous metals.
Beeswax is a bit sticky, but I don't recall ever experiencing problems getting it off my hands: I'm sitting here looking at a new toilet flange ring that I just poked and prodded a bit. It is sticky, but it doesn't adhere to my hands.
Not all toilet wax rings are beeswax. Beeswax works well as a screw lube. If your ring is not sticky now, wait till simmer. ;~) I agree, they can be a sticky mess. Oddly the instructions on the ring box instruct to stick the ring to the bottom of the toilet and then set the toilet down on to the flange. I still set the wax ring on the flange to start with but the wax ring will easily stick to the bottom of the toilet during the summer.
Probably, it's better to pick up beeswax, wing and leg parts and all, from a local beekeeper. That is not as sticky, can be easily cleaned (melt and pour through cheesecloth) if you feel a need, and works beautifully without ever drawing water to itself. That said, plain old floor wax works just fine, too. When I built my deck, I lined up about 20 screws at a time in a can of Johnson's and went from there. It worked beautifully.
Yeah, regular floor wax or finishing wax work very well.
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A dual purpose product, Minwax Finishing Wax.

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I use birthday candles that I had left over after my kids moved away.
I read somewhere along the way . . . LONG before the Wreck was available . . . that soap wasn't a good idea.
I also have some beeswax that I got from my wife and that works well, too.
Between the birthday candles and the beeswax I have a lifetime supply.
-Don
--
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I agree with the technicality. Otherwise, the soap you buy from the store would be a puddle by the time it got on the shelf. I've got hotel soap from vacations 10 years back still bone dry, stored in the bathroom yet. Good demo of hygroscopic is a crystal of pure sodium hydroxide left open to atmosphere. Got to see to believe.
A good point was made that I'd never considered about soap reacting with the wood and leaching resins (as a solvent), later affecting the coating. What others might do this? The turp in a turp/wax mix, the petroleum distallates in hand cleaner, etc.? What about pH changes?
And how do I make sure there's no stray anything left on the wood when I'm done? All would seem to block a finish.
<big snip> Soap may be somewhat hygroscopic, but better examples would be methanol and ethanol. They absorb water from the air readily. Perhaps the property you're thinking of is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Soap molecules have a hydrophilic (water-preferring) end and a hydrophobic (oil/fat-preferring) end, which is why it works as it does by cleaning a variety of substances.
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WOOD adsorbs moisture to equalize with the surroundings. Loses it, too. Think this may be a herring of a different color.
Non-polar solvents like turps don't like water at all, and if the soap is neutralized, which most all are, detergents taking care of the heavy grease, the pH can never get higher than the original wood.
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--WebTV-Mail-4941-3547 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
Hi, my name is Dave. I would use the wax ring. I am a union carpenter ( retired ). I have tried other stuff before but nothing works as well as the good ol' wax ring. You can even use the wax lubricant for saw blades. Dave
--WebTV-Mail-4941-3547 Content-Description: signature Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
<html> <br><br><br></table></td><br><br><br><center><font size="4">You Have Mail From Dave</font></center><center><img src="
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--WebTV-Mail-4941-3547--
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Tue, Feb 13, 2007, 9:19am (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (DaveB) doth sayeth: Hi, my name is Dave. <snip>
Some advice. This is not a binary newsgroup - kill ALL the html when you post here.
JOAT When in doubt, go to sleep. - Mully Small
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Dave B wrote: | Hi, my name is Dave. I would use the wax ring. I am a union | carpenter ( retired ). I have tried other stuff before but | nothing works as well as the good ol' wax ring. You can even | use the wax lubricant for saw blades. Dave | | I Love You Forever, Honey. Dave
Yeah, yeah - we love you, too.
...but only for a very /short/ forever if you post HTML and graphics to text-only newsgroups :-)
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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