Saw Motor S.O.T. NOT

It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw motor" but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230 VAC was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then stop.
The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run" capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then simply stopping.
Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it (frankly, I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the motor for instance.
So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Hoosierpopi" wrote:

------------------------ Sounds like you are torque limited which could happen with a defective "run" cap.
Lew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This depends on how the "run" cap goes defective.
Usually caps just go open circuit and your motor would just stop after the initial start up.
The cap culd become electrically leaky and the motor would probably slow down and grind to a halt. The cap should be warm after this happens.
The cap could be shorted out and your motor would probably lock up, quickly, as soon as the start cycle was complete.
For the $10-15 is costs it would be a good shot-in-the-dark to try. They can be tested but this is not always conclusive depending on how many tests are run on it. Is the rubber cap on the end blown off or any fluid leaked out?
It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw motor" but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230 VAC was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then stop.
The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run" capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then simply stopping.
Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it (frankly, I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the motor for instance.
So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hoosierpopi wrote: ...

Besides the other comments, if it trips is it hot and where? For example and specifically, are bearings bad and binding when get hot?
--
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.