Sanding and finishing Walnut.


I'm in the final steps of sanding a project and have noticed some sanding swirl marks. I have been very careful to step up the sanding grades from 120-150-180-220. I have even tried handing sanding this test board. I still can't seem to remove all the swirl marks. I haven't used walnut before so I may have to drop back and try the sanding process again from 120 grit or lower. Is walnut that hard that it may require a lower sanding grit to start from. I have paper from 80 for my sander. I'm using a festool 150/3 sander. I was going to use Pore-O-Pac paste wood grain filler first then use a tung oil. Is there another way I should consider for a natural grain glass smooth finish. I haven't used a wood grain filler before so this is all new. Thanks again.
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The current issue of WOOD magazine has a really good write-up on finishing various woods. It should help.
-- PDQ
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| I'm in the final steps of sanding a project and have noticed some sanding swirl | marks. I have been very careful to step up the sanding grades from | 120-150-180-220. I have even tried handing sanding this test board. I still | can't seem to remove all the swirl marks. I haven't used walnut before so I may | have to drop back and try the sanding process again from 120 grit or lower. Is | walnut that hard that it may require a lower sanding grit to start from. I have | paper from 80 for my sander. I'm using a festool 150/3 sander. | I was going to use Pore-O-Pac paste wood grain filler first then use a tung | oil. | Is there another way I should consider for a natural grain glass smooth finish. | I haven't used a wood grain filler before so this is all new. | Thanks again. |
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Keith wrote:

Get the Bob Flexner book -- say from Lee Valley -- and have a look at his sanding chapter...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30284&cat=1,190,43047
Keep varsol or mineral spirits handy to clean the wood and look at a low angle for scratches.
Sounds like you are not sanding for enough time at each grade. Spend most of your effort at 120 grade and then move up only after the finish is flat and consistent in appearance. imo
-- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. George Bernard Shaw
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Keith wrote:

Get the Bob Flexner book -- say from Lee Valley -- and have a look at his sanding chapter...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p0284&cat=1,190,43047
Keep varsol or mineral spirits handy to clean the wood and look at a low angle for scratches.
Sounds like you are not sanding for enough time at each grade. Spend most of your effort at 120 grade and then move up only after the finish is flat and consistent in appearance. imo
--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
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Actually Black and or American Walnut is pretty soft compared to Oak. I never go past 180 on Walnut or any other wood and usually start with 150.
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As Leon said, I start with 160-180 and move up from there. However, I prefer a scraper for finishing walnut. Secondly, swirl marks seem to show up only if I allow the sander to stop or start while in contact with the wood.
Dave
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Teamcasa wrote:

swirl marks show up if you move the ROS too fast, also.
Dave
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Keith wrote:

What type of sander are you using that caused the swirl marks?
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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LOL... Probably the smartest response.. Especially if a Non -Random orbital sander is being used.
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It's a random orbital 6" sander festool 150/3

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What brand of paper are you using? Not all are created equal with respect to quality control of grit sizes. I now only use Mirka brand and have had excellent results over the more inexpensive Porter-Cable-type branded home/hardware store selections.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
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