Router dust collection

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On 1/27/2015 8:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

I have a Unifence.

I can't argue with that. ;-)
A change in process might be in order but I sure am attached to routers and good bits. :-(
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------- "Max" wrote:

---------------------------------------------- It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.
When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it became my "go to" tool to solve a task.
Now it is my first choice.
Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.
Lew
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I've found a Ryobi palm router has great dust collection skills, especially since I couldn't pass up a deal on a Bosch Colt. :-)
For the other kind of dust collection, I've found the fixed base for my big router to be much more effective than the plunge base. Part of it seems to be enclosing the dust collection area so there's still a vacuum near the bit. Take this with a bit of salt, though, as I haven't done much with the big router in a while. I got one of those metal lathe things and it's been keeping the woodworking part of the shop clean. (Seriously! Most of my shop time of late has been playing with the metal lathe.)
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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Max wrote:

I also use a router table when possible, otherwise I put the workpiece on my home-built sanding table/air cleaner and it pulls nearly everything in. It has three filters, and the coarse top filter catches the sawdust so I can pick it up with the dust collector hose when I am through.
--
 GW Ross 

 Insanity is hereditary. You get it 
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------- "Max" wrote:

---------------------------------------------- It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.
When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it became my "go to" tool to solve a task.
Now it is my first choice.
Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.
Lew
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On 1/28/2015 5:43 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I got it but it was bought on the advice of someone here. I trust my fence and it's indicator; I very seldom need to "tweak" it to get precise cuts. But using a dado blade (I have a Freud SD308) I'm not sure how I would guesstimate the distance to move the fence to "dial-in" a cut. If I cut one side of the dado by making a 1/2" cut then move the fence to enlarge the cut to 23/32 (the size of 3/4" plywood I've been getting) I'm not sure how to accomplish that.
As for the slot in a frame for a panel I align the fence as nearly as possible to the center of the frame piece, run it through then move the fence just slightly to widen the cut to accommodate a 1/4" (nominal) panel. (by reversing the direction of feed I'm taking a tiny bit from each side of the "slot") (I hope that's decipherable.) ;-)
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On 1/28/2015 7:22 PM, Max wrote:

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm ?
Might have been me ... been a fanbois here for the product, for those who have the Delta UniFence, for a number of years
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On 1/28/2015 6:39 PM, Swingman wrote:

That's it and you're the "one".
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------- "Max" wrote:

---------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:

--------------------------------------------- "Max" wrote:

---------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:
If it's the one Swing referenced, the yellow board buddy is a winner.
I used one to make a mile of 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft battens from 2x12x24 construction timbers. ------------------------------------------------- "Max" wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------- Some scrap and your 6" dial caliper are your friends, along with the UniFence which I have found to be very accurate.
Set up the dado stack to 23/32" and some height, then make a test cut in some scrap. Check with your handy dandy dial caliper and adjust as req'd.
Use the UniFence indicator tape to set the distance from the piece edge to the dado edge, make the cut and get on with life.
SFWIW, I also use the 1/2" cutter in a router to make a 23/32" dado.
Takes two passes but no climb cuts are involved.
The UniFence is a measuring instrument as well as a table saw accessory.
It can make life a lot easier.
Lew
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On 1/28/2015 7:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

The dial caliper! Duh, he said, hitting his forehead.
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Getting here late, look at Festool
http://youtu.be/8KMU9Zh0hpk

http://youtu.be/8KMU9Zh0hpk


http://youtu.be/5dR2EDyeJHY

http://youtu.be/5dR2EDyeJHY

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On 2/1/2015 7:24 AM, Leon wrote:

Looks like the little dust shield on the bottom is key.
Pricey. I think I'll struggle along with my current inventory of routers. :-(
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For edge routing it's important, sure. Of course it won't work for anything in the middle of the board. The dust collection works for all cuts, though.

It's Festool. Of course it's pricey. ;-)
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On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:51:19 PM UTC-6, Max wrote:



My definitive answer is "it depends"... on the router and setup.
I have a couple of routers - and ancient Craftsman and a Bosch plunge kit. Both have accessory collector fittings that do a decent job when hooked up to my shop vac.
The Bosch spends some time in my home-built router table and I built a coll ection chamber and vacuum hookup into the fence. It probably catches about 80-80% of the debris, but some still falls to the floor beneath the table (built into a wing of my table saw). I have been tempted to box the botto m of the table and add another vacuum pickup but haven't got around to it. Probably won't because the small amount of debris is easy to clean up.
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