Rip fence not square with table

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The sides of the rip fence of my Delta TS350 aren't perfectly perpendicular to the table. Is there anything I can do about this? There are no adjustment bolts, as the thing is welded together. Is it reasonable to complain to Delta when the saw only cost $400?
Mike
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IMHO depends on what is meant by "perfectly perpendicular"
If it is far off enough to affect the quality or precision of your work, then sure, complain to Delta. If your talking about a few thousandths that you measured with machinists tools, forget about it.
OTOH, if it IS bad enough to affect your work, and the saw is old or of warranty or Delta can't or won't do anything, the usual approach is to attach some kind of facing to the fence and square it as needed. could just be a nice hardwood board or maybe a piece of UHMW plastic.
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No dumb questions, just dumb answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
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matter. Generally the wood is held to the table, not the fence. There are exceptions, like doing a raised panel on your saw, but certainly not common.
How off is it? I have never even check mine.
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If you ever cut thick material with a rabbet on the upper side against the fence the fence not being square to the table will cause problems if you use the fence rule to set its distance from the blade.
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Leon wrote:

Yes, that's what I did. I had some thick stock up against the fence to cut rabbets in it and that's when I noticed how imperfect it was. I can take a picture and post in to ABPW. The gap is enough to be seen with a square flat on the table and up against the fence.
Maybe I'm looking for squareness in something that's not expected to have it?
I probably should have built Frank Klausz' tenon jig...that would have kept the work square to the table.
Mike
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No, you should expect to have a fence that is square to the table top.
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Okay, going back through what I typed I think it could be misinterpreted.
I do have the fence parallel to the blade and whether it's square to the front edge of the table doesn't matter...What I'm expecting is for the fence to point up, away from the ground, at 90 degrees to the table. That is, if the fence extended up further, I'm expecting it's sides to be plumb to the table (of course I'm not expecting high precision).
(front view, expected) ....|#######| ....|#######| ....|#######| <-- fence ....|#######| -------------------------------------------- front edge of table --------------------------------------------
(front view, actual, exaggerated) .\#######\ ..\#######\ ...\#######\ <-- fence ....\#######\ -------------------------------------------- front edge of table --------------------------------------------
Mike
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On 9 Oct 2006 08:54:28 -0700, upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Ahhhh... Depending on how bad the angle is, it's probably okay- It basically means the scale indicator will be inaccurate with different thicknesses of wood. It could be a problem if you're ripping something on edge- but then I think I'd make a sub-fence that is plumb to the table if you're going to be doing that. As long as you've got is parallel to the blade, and the work slides freely, it shouldn't be dangerous, just annoying.
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Pics posted to ABPW.
Big deal, or no big deal?
Mike
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I understand your problem and your picture verified that. You want correct that.
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probably wouldn't come up much.
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Suppose you want the 45 the edge of a board than then the 45 the opposite edge of the board. Same Problem with a fence that is not square to the table.
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Toller wrote:

I think there's some ambiguity about what direction the OP means. You're talking about the vertical part of the fence not being perp. to the tabletop, which doesn't matter as you said. Everyone else is talking about along the horizontal part of the fence, which should be parallel to the blade and need not be perp. to the edge of the table.
Mark
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vertical not being perpendicular. Doesn't it?
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Toller wrote:

Yes. When I wrote what I did, I hadn't seen his drawing yet. I must have this thread open for an hour or so, and by the time I had a chance to post my response he had already put up the drawing. I responded without refreshing the page, which would have shown the latest info.
Another question is: does the fence lean toward the blade or away from it? If it leans toward the blade, then when/if the back end of the blade grabs the piece, it will be carried up and could get wedged in between the fence and spinning blade. Not good.
Mark
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ambiguity about what direction the OP means.

It does matter.
Everyone else is

Not everyone else. Some maybe.
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On 8 Oct 2006 18:48:58 -0700, upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

First off, is it out of kilter in reference to the table or the blade? If it's parallel to the blade, you've got little to complain about.
Also, my first TS was a Delta TS200, (one step down) and there was just enough play in it to align the sucker a little manually before clamping. It's a PITA, but if you're patient and measure from the front and the back of the blade to the fence each time you move it, it's servicable. I'd hope the TS300 is at least a little better, but it's still part of the "Shopmaster" line, and the quality on that whole line leaves a lot to be desired. On the bright side, Delta still has a good enough reputation (increasingly undeserved as it may be) that I was able to sell the TS200 for 75% of the list price after two years of use in about 15 minutes- took it to a job site, and guys were all but fighting over who got to buy it. So if you don't like it and have another $200 or so, I'd sell or return it, and move up to the low end of the industrial line- the difference is like night and day.
Far as complaining to Delta goes, have at it. I don't know if they would care, but it can't hurt anything. If it was my $400, I'd consider that enough $$$ spent to have earned the right to at least grumble a little at someone if the product wasn't up to par- it's not like they gave it to you for nothing at that price.
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If it's parallel to the blade, and *not* perpendicular to the table, then the *blade* is not perpendicular to the table. That's enough of a cause for complaint for me to do something about it.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 11:45:04 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Yes, yes, I caught that- it just seemed like an honest mistake.
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How far out? These adjustment is some times accomplished by lowering the guide rails on one end or the other to compensate for the problem.
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