Re: Unisaw Question(s)

And don't forget to send me the dust door after you remove it! ;*) Jamie
Unisaw A100 wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the good ideas. I'll check out the size of the motor shroud. Changing the motor is not an option now that I'm used to the 3hp.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jsm wrote:

I'm happy to hear this. Leaves the vintage repulsion/inductions with one less person trying to rub their nose oils on them.
UA100, who does have a spare bullet end motor on hand *just in case*...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Excellent choice! 1. In one box you get the saw itself; 2. the table saw iron extensions. 3. a third one contains the Unifence 4. a fourth one may contain the mobile base plus the non metal extension table depending what brand they are giving you ( lucky!). You have to install the extensions and level them up and so the Unifence . I got the HTC for this saw, but be prepared as mine was to long for the nonmetal extension table and had to add a metal plate for proper support. You will need help to lift up the table saw onto the base. Yes it will go through a 36" door ( the saw ) as it is +/- 32" with the Unisaw bar installed but will suggest you to first get the saw where you want it and then install the Unifence; It will make your life easier. While installing the Unifence you will find a long carton strip...don't ever misplaced it as it serves to place the screws in the right place. Good luck and enjoy your new toy. snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net.

tilt
and
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .
I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.
On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct piece and the base hole
I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.
Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works quite well.
Almost forgot, the dust door at the front was replaced with a solid ply door.
-- mike hide

tilt
and
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .
I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.
On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct piece and the base hole
I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.
Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works quite well
-- mike hide

tilt
and
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks Mike - that is a great idea. I may have to rethink this thing again before I attack it. Like you, I have sealed the semi-circular hole for the blade tilt-track as well as around the table edges and around the base. I've put a piece of thin ply on the inside of the vent door. I'm going over to Rockwell tomorrow to check out their motor shroud. You are right. It is a bugger to DC.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jsm wrote:

Mind picking me up a list of parts and bringing them back to the future with you?
UA100, working on a "Go Back In Time" machine...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

OK...DELTA ...feel better?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

yes
UA100
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The standard new motor shroud fits fine , thats the one I used, just make sure when you fit it that the motor is fully angled .
By the way, when I made enquiries to Delta's home office they kindly sent me free a copy of the manual for the saw....mjh
-- mike hide
face=Arial size=2>...</FONT></DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&gt; &gt;OK...DELTA ...feel better?<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; yes<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; UA100</FONT></BODY></HTML>
------=
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.